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How do I fletch a Soar's Battle shaft?

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D. Tiller:
Yeah, but at what draw weight should I start to use them?

stevesjem:
I suggest using them on bows over 70lb, If Nick Birmingham is using arrows with no horn inserts on his new 123lb Self yew bow then he has just lost his warranty on it, it is just plain stupid to endanger the bow by not making reinforced nocks on your arrows, Arrows are cheap, Broken Italian Yew bows are not. thanks for the heads up Nick.

Cheers

Steve

Yeomanbowman:
A note to all, buffalo horn can split right down the grain as easy as wood so cow horn is much better for the reinforcement.  Don't forget when you make a replica war arrow that you are using a design for something that was not meant to be shot repeatedly.  Plastic is much tougher for roving/target arrows (if not very primitive it is strong) and a binding helps as well.

adb:
Steve is right... why risk your bow? It is a bit of a pain in the arse making re-enforced nocks. I have also used hard woods, such as cocobolo to re-enforce nocks. Perhaps with tough harder woods like ash you might be OK without re-enforcing the nock, but I do it for all my arrows with selfnocks for bows above 60#.

D. Tiller:
I've been shooting self nocked arrows in bows up to 75#'s with no problems. I think it is when we get up higher than that that we can have trouble. What I do is I wrap the arrows up to the groove and glue up the wraps. Seems to hold together pretty well. I've shot these arrows repeatedly with no splitting even in the shoot shafts I have made.

I don't think warbows were just being shot for war. There was practice, in the medieval ages, every sunday after church for two hours. So they must have been shooting there own arrows more than just a couple times. Are the Mary Rose arrows reinforced? We should take into account also that the Mary Rose was the flagship of the fleet and probably had the best equipment onboard.

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