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California Indian Style Archery Set Build-a-long

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Dustybaer:
wow, what a buildalong.  awesome.

Parnell:
Much appreciated.  I've learned much from it - thanks...

Parnell

JackCrafty:
Well, it's time to resume the construction of the arrows.  Trying to arrange some daylight working hours when the camera is available has been tricky lately.  Sorry for the delay.

I decided to shorten all the arrows after I took a good hard look at the one I finished.
It was way too long for the 20" draw....it felt awkward having so much arrow sticking out beyond the bow.
So......I cut them all down to 22".




The deflection is about .3"....which is good for about 70# @ 20" draw.

*Edit* - April 1, 2009

These shafts were deflecting @ .35" to .37" when I scraped and spined them previously (reply #9). I wonder what happened.  ???  They now seem to be spining @ .30 or so.  Maybe it was due to a change in humidity?  I seem to remember that they felt pretty flexible (reply #11) and it was bugging me that the bareshaft session showed that the arrow I was shooting was too stiff.  I'll address this issue when I resume the build along.

I don't use the numbers to the right of the deflection scale,
(they are for 26 and 28" arrows anyway)....I use the formula:  spine = span divided by deflection.



The remaining 2" of arrow plus 6" of foreshaft reduces the spine by about 40# (8x5=40).
So, theoretically, the arrows should be fine for a 30# bow. (70# - 40# = 30#)
These calculations are simplified, I know, but they give me a ballpark idea.

Here are the forshafts cut and weighed.
I'm going to put the heaviest forshaft with the lightest arrow and vice versa (like I should have done in the beginning)


JackCrafty:
To remove the arrowhead I glued on earlier, I tried soaking the tip in water for 30 min.



The sinew peeled off easily and so did the acrylic paint:



The fish glue holding the arrowhead on wasn't affected at all.......so I had to do major surgery....





I tried breaking the tip at the foreshaft/arrowshaft joint......it broke easily.....my fears confirmed.
I'm definitely going to use a stronger joint in the future.

JackCrafty:
The bowstring was bugging me, so I replaced it with a lighter sinew string (not dyed this time either... ::) )





Here I begin to apply the first foreshaft with a better (stronger) method.
I use a triangular arrowhead to ream the inside of the cane.





Then I make the foreshaft to match.










I used a piece of sandstone for the final shaping....just for grins.




The tennon was rattling around inside the hole....so I wrapped some thread around it for a tight fit.



Then I heated some brewer's pitch (with a heat gun) and glued the foreshaft on with it.






After inserting the forshaft, I give it a tap to seat it.




Then clean my fingers with a rag soaked with some olive oil.



The pine pitch was pretty hot....so I'm going to use a stick to apply the pitch in the future.  :o

 :)

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