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Lil Split-along
Timo:
Old hat for most that visit these boards, but some may get something out of it. I have lots of people ask me how to split Osage, especially the bigger logs, so I figured since I was splitting some anyhow I might as well take a few pics and show how I tackle the task.
I’d first like to explain a few simple things about splitting Osage. This particular quarter log was one I had the saw mill save for staves. It’s very clear and will be easy to show the basics of splitting. It measures around 10” across the back, so it will yield 4 staves@ 2 ½’wide and 2 belly splits also. I sawed a kerf along its back, but first I use a draw knife to remove the rough outer bark, so I can chalk a clean line in accordance to the center of the quarter. Then I use a skill saw set full depth and saw a kerf along the line. I have 3 small wedges that I sharpen to a knife edge, and use them to start my splits. After they get started it’s just a matter of running bigger wedges along the split. It will part cleanly.
I then lay out marks how I want these staves to be, again 2 ½” wide (below the sapwood line) and about the same in depth. I then take off the belly split first, then split the other down the middle. This wood is straight and clear, so I sawed kerfs for every split. This quarter yielded 6 beautiful staves. Perfect in every way.
More later,I'm tired. :)
ricktrojanowski:
Thanks for the info. I've never taken any belly splits before. You said that you sawed a kerf for all splits. Does that include the belly split?
Timo:
Rick,I don't saw kerfs for all splits, mainly for the initial split to half a log, and sometimes to quarter it.Depend on how straight and clean the wood is. If it is straight,then yes I will saw kerfs. I call it controlling the split.
As for belly splits,there is no need to saw kerfs.Just start the split on the ring/size you want the stave.Most times it will folow a single ring,or at least close to it. I love watching belly slpits come out.Usually just a few pops and it falls apart.No need for sledge hammers here,just a 4# hammer works fine.
Saw kerfs won't serve us much help on snakey,crooked,knotted up wood.For that you have to work with what the wood has to offer, and just use the wedges,lilttle increments as ya go.Meaning spacing wedges closer together and not trying to overpower the wood. When knotty wood is present,one has to realize the split is gonna go around the knot.Try to lay your split out so that the knot ends up on the side of a split,(unless you want it in the middle of the stave).Then you can remove it later when you start your bow.
Most people just want to get it staved out, not takeing time to study the grain.It's some times hard to read, but after the first split,one should recognize how the wood is gonna act, and then work with it,or against it. I suggest with it.
sailordad:
timo
does this same technique work on other woods also?
i still have a few logs of hhb been waiting splitting(weather ya know doesnt always allow for it here in mn)
i plan on kerfing them to get them split as straight as possible.
should one work wedges down one side only or down both sides of a log when halfing it?
thank for your time,i am sure i will have more q's on this later
peace,
tim
Postman:
Good stuff timo.....I Like the idea of drawknifing a bit before kerfing. Do you have an old saw you use just for staves? I think osage is really hard on a circular saw, so I've used a yardsale craftsman so's not to ruin my good one. I also have used old screwdrivers on my splits, especially snakey ones. I've only done a few trees, though - that haul of yours is truly awesome!
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