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stone point trauma pics...
Ryan_Gill_HuntPrimitive:
i was originally concerned with the flared edges, but i needed them to get a "legal width" i actually hoped that they might break off atr impact and give me a "bird point" in essence for better penetration. and if not, at least the hole going in would be bigger. i based the design and size from several points that an archeologist friend of mine has in his collection, some with only one flare still intact and others complete. i was only to surmise, if it was a popular design for the ancients, than perhaps i should re-create it to work for me. the flares are very very thin little blades. i actually have broken a few already testing them, but i made a bunch up so i can just keep slapping new ones on there, i think there are only 2 original survivors from that picture...lol
Ryano:
Anaconda 12, those pictures are of before the arrows were shot into the deer. The arrows stayed in the deer on both cases....never to be seen again along with my deer.
Timo, three times in one season could definitely qualify as bad luck. The reason I didn't mention the third one is I know the shot placement wasn't the greatest on it, liver shot at best. Another local hunter found that deer nearly a month later with the arrow and stone point still in tacked. While I feel that one was mostly my fault for making a lousy shot, the deer still left no sign to follow, I have recovered lots of gut shot deer shot with a steel head. I just leave them lay all night and go back in the morning. They have always left some sort of a blood trail in the past. :P
I got a few heads from Eddie over the weekend and Steve is going to make a few more for me to try again this year so I guess we'll see. I'm thinking of upping the overall weight of my arrows as well, in the hopes they will get a complete pass through.
mullet:
Ryan, looking at those points, I have to agree with Hillbilly. If you look close at the bottom point, you can see flat deltas on the edge, and the points aren't very sharp. I also use triangle points just glued to the shaft, without any criss-cross sinew wrap. I wrap the shaft from splitting only. And if I'm going to shoot it at a deer or hog, sorry, I put it on with real glue I know will not soften under any weather condition. I would also up the weight of the arrow to around 600-725 grn.
And like Billy and Steve, I touch up the edge every night on my points. I also stuff a wad of Spanish Moss in the bottom of my quiver to keep them from rubbing and making noise. I had a State Wildlife Biologist in Kentucky ask me if they were sharp enough to kill a deer. I ran it across his boot and left a 4"cut in the leather. Larry wasn't happy, but he was convinced.
jamie:
only thing i can add to this is if you are going to hunt with stone points, you shoulg have some knapping ability. i no longer give hunting points out because every time i see them hafted they are dull. being able to sharpen your heads is vital. i have well over a dozen and a half white tails taken with stone points. one at 35 yards. . i also track out a lot of lost deer for other hunters and can tell ya. even guns and crappy steel points will fail to leave blood. . i also think there is good argument for not having a pass through. most of the animals ive shot were an absolute mess on the inside from the point having stayed inside.
mullet:
Twistedlimb, instead of taking out the flair, come under it and bring your corners to a sharp point, they are rounded now. If you have stone exposed you might as well make it all cut and stick.
After reading Jamie's post, it is starting to sound like the consensus is poorly maintained points. I won't even say light arrows is part of the problem, because I know Marc StLouis shoots around 550 grn arrows and Chris Cade has killed deer with light weight bows.
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