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American bison, horn bow w/sinew(pic update)
Timo:
After 20 mins the glue is perty much dry to the touch.I then applied another wet coat of warm glue and let it set for 3 mins,then applied the horn to the wood. You can see my clamping system on this one.I get these big rubber bands from an application of my work.I have lots of them so I figured they would make a good clamp.They did ok for the most part, but I think next time I will just use clamps,As I had a couple spots that showed a glueing error.(my bad). ;)
I left it over night and most of the next day before I removed the clamps. Here is a few pics of how the clamps worked out and what the bow looked like after I removed it. Sorry the last pic is out of focus. >:(
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Timo:
As I said,I had a couple spots that bothered me,so I heated up some glue and thinned it down a good bit,took a syringe and shot some in the bad spots,then used the heat gun to liquify it.I then clamped it back and watched it squeeze out, so then I knew I had some glue in there.
After a couple days I cleaned up the edges of the horn and worked out the tiller.
I have a good friend in Iowa,"John Stutevant" who makes probly the best bbo and horn(gemsbock) bellied bows I have ever seen. He has kept records over the years of how much weight the horn adds to a bow. His record read that app 1/8" horn adds 5-10#,I was hoping for 10# , but after I got the tiller like I wanted, It weighed in 48# only gaining app 5#. The sinew will add quite a bit so hoping to get at least a 55# bow from this deal.
Heres a couple more pics of the belly showing the horn,and the profile I have, ready for sinew.
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Pat B:
Very cool, Tim.
radius:
Did you taper the horn at the fades?
Timo:
Thanks Pat.
Radius, I glue it on full thickness and then filed it into the fade,so yes I guess it would be tapered.
True horn bows had the horn running into the handle and meeting,sometimes haveing a horn splice under the handle.
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