Main Discussion Area > Arrows

Dowel rods

<< < (3/4) > >>

Kegan:
Three glued on works, but Cherokee two-fletch is pretty reliable. It's also easier with crow featehrs, as they're harder to split than turkey :P

Pat B:
With smaller feathers like from a crow I like to use either 3 or 4, laid backside down around the shaft. When viewed from the nock or point end it will have a helical effect. These are attached with a wrap at the forward and rear ends only.

Jmilbrandt:
I use dowels for all my arrows, I have the same advice as everyone else, no severe grain run off and try to spine them as you pick them out. I just bend them by hand, not probably the most accurate method but I can usually hit what i'm shooting at.

Canoe:
Howdy  Group,

Hey, regarding getting correct spine from dowels,  PatB just said, "If (the dowels) are too stiff you can sand the center of the shaft to reduce the spine.
  Initially, leave the dowels long then reduce the length until you find a length that shoots best or your bow at your draw length."

Is this correct?  I mean, can I simply sand the center areas of my dowels until I get the spine I want, and the arrows will then fly well?

Cool!!  And Thanks - I thought I would have to get a consistant diameter across the whole shaft.


Canoe

Pat B:
You don't want the center too much thinner than the ends. You will have to be selective when you buy them. Flex the dowels and choose similarly bending dowels with good grain.
 You can thin the entire dowel by chucking it in an electric drill and with sandpaper around the dowel run the drill while you work the sand paper up and down the shaft.Test flex often.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page