Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
Knife Sheath Sewalong (Pic Heavy)
madcrow:
When the glue has dried, I move to the drill press and bore the holes for sewing. Sorry, no pics of that. Now, for the wholes. You want a tight fit with the thread used. It looks nicer if the thread does not show the holes, so some consideration needs to be given about the thread size and the needle size. If the holes are too big, there will be gaps around the thread. If they are too small, you will need a pair of pliers to pull the needle through. The largest drill bit I
use for this is 1/16". Most of the time I use some that are smaller. You can use a punch for the holes, drill and bit, or a dremel tool and a small bit. After the holes are drilled, I wet the inside of the sheath and use a penny to press the area around the holes. This will allow the thread to sink into the leather and avoid being cut by the knife.
Here I use another specialized tool. I made a leather thimble to push the needle through the holes.
madcrow:
Now the welt can be glued into place. I trimmed the bottom tip to leave about 1/8" of a hole in the tip of the sheath. Just in case somebody gets in deep water or gets caught in the rain, there will be a way for water to drain. I put the glue around the edges, being careful not to go past where the welt will be. That will keep glue off the knife blade. Add a few spring clamps and wait about 20 minutes for the glue to cure.
The glue has dried, and I snuck out to the building and bored the holes for sewing and the holes for the rivets. That is also where the tracing wheel comes in handy. It left evenly spaced divets, which is great for boring or punching holes. Because of the thickness of the leather, I used every other divet. With thinner leather, you can use every hole if you want.
I used artificial sinew fo this one. I start in the rivet hole on the end. You can do a saddle stitch or a running stitch, which ever you want. If you choose the sdlle stitch, start in the middle of the sheath and work toward the rivet hole. I don't tie the string or knot it yet. I sew half way down the sheath, then turn and come back to the first rivet hole. This is just a precaution. If the sinew gets cut accidently, only half of it will need to be replaced.
madcrow:
Now back at the hole, you have two strings. Just tie them in an overhand knot and add a couple drops of superglue. The rivet will hide the knot and trap the string in place.
Now go do the same thing to the other end and add the rivets of choice.
madcrow:
There are several options for finishing the sheath. Dying, clear coat, wax. I am just going to cover the hot wax dip for now. Wrap the knife in cling wrap, but not too much. The sheath will be formed to the knife so you don't want it too bulky.
I use a mix of one box of parrafin wax, three woilet bowl rings and four ounces of mink oil for my dip. When you heat it up, do not get the wax too hot. If you do, it will curl and shrivel the leather and the sheath will be a total loss. If the wax is bubbling or smoking, it it too hot. If you cannot stick your finger in the wax, it is too hot. I usually set the burner on the stove between low and medium. I stick the sheath in and roll it around, flip it roll it some more. Take it out and let it set for a few minutes and then do it again. This allows the wax to soak into the leather.
While it is drying, you can pinch in on the leather just below the handle of the knife to help shape it. When it is dry, the leather wil be hardened. Take the knife out and tap your knuckles on the sheath. It should sound hollow.
madcrow:
I use an old clean sock to buff the wax as it dries.
Here it is beside one that I dyed dark brown and waxed. See the difference in color.
All done, now I am ready to make another, and another.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version