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Straightening tonkin cane
DanaM:
Josh nice thing about a heat gun is you can confine the heat to small areas or you can heat a whole internode section.
Another trick I was taught for straighening a node is to wrap a wet rag around the shaft on each side of the node to be straightened
this keeps the heat in the node and allows it be gently straighened.
GregB:
--- Quote ---I use the heat-gun-in-a-vise method a lot for straightening shafts, too.
--- End quote ---
Hillbilly, I think I first heard it from you about using the heat gun. BigA was working on a batch prior to my starting and was using a heat gun and liked it a lot better so I decided you guys had to be on to something... ;)
--- Quote ---Another trick I was taught for straighening a node is to wrap a wet rag around the shaft on each side of the node to be straightened this keeps the heat in the node and allows it be gently straighened.
--- End quote ---
That sounds like a good idea Dana! I usually jump around on the shaft to allow the cane time to cool before I do an adjacent node, but I have noticed that I've undone some straightening by getting heat on it again when I didn't mean too! :)
DanaM:
Greg I hope the fella that told me that trick doesn't shun me for passing it along :o
ricktrojanowski:
Greg
I found that when I was using my heat gun for straightening tonkin, I was getting it too hot. Which in turn was causing me to ruin lots of shafts. A friend told me to use lower heat for longer and work on one section at a time then move to the next shaft and so on. It takes me a ton of time but I ruin a lot less stuff.
D. Tiller:
Yep! I hear you all. Been there done that. Working with, believe it or not, gooseberry as a shafting material. If I let it dry long enough, its prety tough stuff. Need to use for shaft and footing inserts though. Now if I can just get some time to work on my archery stuff some more! Never enough time or energy!
David T
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