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Obtaining horn nocks

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zeNBowyer:
Allright then, thanxs  for the  comments, very  suprising to  me  personally,  and  aesthetically  (they  really  are  beautiful  looking!) ,
but function  always  comes  first  in  my  book:)

markinengland:
A while back I was looking at buying 500 or more horn nocks from the supplier mentioned to sell alongside my shafts. I was puzzled when mention was made of a mold. I supplied a drawing but expected some variation with a hand made product, but it seemed this was not possible. While it is possible to heat and form flat horn with moulds I couldn't understand how a nock could be mould formed. Perhaps this is now explained and it is a good thing I never placed the order?

I have now broken a few bamboo arrows at the point (hitting hard things side on) and at the fletching (trying to fit through too small a gap between trees) but never a nock. The only broken bamboo nock I have had was shot off.

A little binding just below the nock is all that is required if the nock is cut at a node. If the nock is not at a node I would glue in a wooden or bamboo plug, cut the nock and bind.

Mark in England

mullet:
 Mark, the first time I saw something made with a mold I got ripped off buying to oriental statues that I was told were ivory. It turned out they were crushed bone and polymer. Now I'm real sceptical when I see hand made bone and horn products that are all uniform.

Hillbilly:
I have made many, many cane/boo  arrows with self nocks and shot them thousands of times, and have never had one break. I can't say the same for plastic nocks like everybody commonly uses, I've broken several of those over the years. As long as you wrap below the nock, it's not going anywhere. Cane is magic. I've made a few antler inserts just for pimping purposes, and they are tough. But selfnocks in cane work great.

Cromm:
Oldways are the best ways.
If you want to change the colour of the self nock like a plastic nock you can paint them then wrap them.

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