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Strength of Tie-Ons

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Kegan:
I'm working on a set of new birch hunting arrows when I realized I'd need some heavier broadheads. Tying to open my options from just glue-ons, I tried an old test point arrow I had to see how well it would hold up. So I shot it, about 4 yards, straight into a tree from my nearly 90# white oak and sinew bow (about 83# at the draw I shot it with). Only damage was the glue came undone on the blade (ie fixable). That's the point... doesn't look like it really minded, does it?

Well, that wasn't what I was expecting! Certainly opened my eyes :)

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Josh:
cool keegan! how did you get it outta the tree trunk?

sailordad:
he pulls them out by hand :D
after all he pulls them massive poundage bows all the time

Pat B:
A glancing blow on bone could jar it loose but it can do that with store bought points too. Most of the pressure is straight back into the shaft so if you have a good wrap behind the point a straight on hit shouldn't be a problem.
  With pitch glue you could fix it without untying the wrap.

Kegan:
I got it out by "tapping" it with a hatchet and "wiggling" it loose ;).

Pat- I've had alot of glue on arrow heads break the shaft on impact from glancing blows, just as well as tie ons. When I started though, I noticed that the little give in the sinew was never as bad as the small taper on the shafts for glue ons (especially on larger diamater arrow shafts), and I didn't see a big difference. So whenever I test a new head or home made glue on I just shoot it directly into a tree. I've had more than a few prove to be less than durable that way :-X. Were the shaft not on its last stretch, I would have just smeared a little eopxy in the crack with a piece of paper and I'm sure it would have been good as new :).

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