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using both sides of the feather?
Pat B:
This is a native cane called hill cane that grown only in the Appalachian Mountains. It is related to our native switch cane and river cane. Arundaneria appalachiana, tecta and gigantia respectively. There may be a similar Japanese cane in the same genus.
The wall thickness of the hill cane is about 1/3 the diameter or slightly less. This footing method is Art Butner's secret. He wanted me to try to mess these up. I haven't gone out of my way to ruin one but the joint is tough. The foreshaft is not intended to come out. Some folks make they with detachable foreshafts but I use the cane for self arrows with self nocks and points hafted directly into or on to the cane.
Another excellent arrow bamboo is Bambusa multiplex. It is a clumping type bamboo that is not invasive but only grows in warmer areas. A friend in Coastal South Carolina has a 100' hedge of bambusa. He divided a 50 year old clump that was only about 6' to 8' in diameter. Thick wall culms and long internodes(12" to 14") so only 2 nodes per 30" arrow in some cases.
Art, you were typing while I was.
artcher1:
Yeah, your hill cane is one of the better ones to use this method on Pat. Tonkin, switch cane and the bambusa works just as well. Probably work on hardwood shoot shafts with a centered pithy center like sourwood of multifora rose. Will have to try those. ART
Pat B:
Art, is the joint just your standard taper joint?
artcher1:
That's correct Pat.
ART
stringstretcher:
Art. Those arrows don't seem to have as long of a forewhat as some I have seen on you previous arrows? Is this something new or just something you are trying? I also noted that there is no wrapping on the splice????
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