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first arrows and other first
aero86:
well, if your just target shooting then dont use that type of point, just use blunt or field points..
ricktrojanowski:
Nice work. Very good "firsts". If you are going to put heads on try some pine pitch and sinew.
half eye:
65 X 55,
I see from your pics that you made the head slots pretty short, and it looks like all you used to haft the heads on was the heavy thread. Also it looks like you left the end of the shaft ears flat and did not taper them.
Next time try making your slots about twice as deep as these first ones, then when you set the heads put some some slow setting epoxy between the head and slot (the 30 minuet epoxy should do you), then start to wrap with the twine. Upholstery thread will suck up the excess epoxy and not only bond on the head but also bond the thread as well. Any ecess epoxy that squishes out just smooth it down with your finger. When all that sets after about an hour give the threads a good coat of clear fingernail polish (it's really lacquer) In 24 hours that head will be tough as nails.
One more thing the smaller wooden head you show in photo 108 has nearly perfect sized flukes, 104 are a little big (they drag when your taking the arrow out of the target)
I make my arrows with hafted heads (steel trade points) and bind with artificial sinew (upholstery thread is probably tougher) and they get epoxy and nail polish. Here is a pick of a head that has about 500-550 shots on it, and only needed one touch-up with nail polish. Oh ya the slots for these heads is 1" deep.
half eye ;)
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sailordad:
i agree with rick, and half eye
with stone heads i haft with pine pitch and sinew.
notches should be deeper to seat the head better.
i have shot many of my stone tipped primiitve arrows in to my block 4x4 target,my bows arent super heavy bot in the 50lb-60lb range
at 12-15 yds they go in pretty deep,never left on inside of the block yet.well some of the store bought steel heads from my carbon shafts are there
but none of my stone ones
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