Main Discussion Area > Arrows
Confusion on spine tester usage. (Ugh!)
stringstretcher:
What I have been taught and tested, most all of my cane will have a stiff side opposite the branch scars, sulcus and my nocks will be cut perpendicular to them. In doing this the stiffest side of the cane will go to the strike plate. This has made a huge difference if getting my arrows to fly and hit the same to each other. Just my way of doing it...IMO.
Pat B:
riarcher, After you work with any materials, cane included, you will be able to see and feel the spine and sizes that will work best for you. Most "primitive" technology is more sensory than modern methods and it takes a while to develop the "feel" for things as well as the knowledge to accept what you feel over what you have been taught in modern archery. We are using natural materials that are not uniform so we have to develop the "technology" to work and deal with them in our modern times.
aero86:
stringstretcher, you say the stiff side is usually opposite of the branch scars, then you say you cut the nock, perpendicular to the branch scars? your bi-secting the stiff side, or are you cutting the nock perpendicular to the stiff side, or parallel to the branch scars.. im confused now
Mechslasher:
26" is the standard with .5" of deflection with a 2# weight being around 51# of spine. i didn't care for the dial tester so i made a pointer type. it was much easier to use imo. for me the stiff side of cane is usually to the side of the node scars, which i orient against the strike plate. in other words, the scars are facing up and down when the arrow in on the string. the formula for figuring out spine, point weight, arrow length, and taper is fairly simple but complex at the same time. it just takes practice, about 500-1000 cane arrows. ;D
Hillbilly:
I usually orient mine the same way Chris said-the nodes will be in line with the nock groove, or on top and bottom with the arrow on the bow.
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