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Cane methods questioned
Pat B:
Like Hillbilly I see no need to foot a cane shaft. Haft the point directly into the cane, taper it for glue on points and use self nocks in cane.
I did make one footed cane arrow and Wolf Watcher carries it in his quiver. 8)
mullet:
Myself and Mechlesher have used them with very good sucess on hogs. The new ones I'm using have very small (1"x 1/4" ) stone points attached are are made to detach on entry. Chris puts his on with super glue. The first hog he killed with one the foreshaft detached, went through the heart and the hog fell over dead in less than 5 yards.
riarcher:
--- Quote from: Pat B on March 10, 2010, 07:09:01 pm ---Like Hillbilly I see no need to foot a cane shaft. Haft the point directly into the cane, taper it for glue on points and use self nocks in cane.
I did make one footed cane arrow and Wolf Watcher carries it in his quiver. 8)
--- End quote ---
For points I'm having good luck with drilling and Gorila Gluing the screw-ins.
The hollow core acts like a drill guide. Come out straight and concentic pretty easy.
I do wrap the pile end though, no biggie. I practice my rod building that way. ;D
riarcher:
NC -
"I have read were cane arrows are spined then the stiff side is put to the shelf. I also wonder why the stiff side is placed towards the bow rather than the side that spines to match your bow. I have seen a single cane arrow spine from 80# to 50# depending on the side spined. If my bow shoots at 60#, then why would I put the 80# side to the bow? If the arrow must flex around the bow then the 80# side would be too stiff and cause erratic arrow flight or hit off to one side.
Stiff side is the heaviest spine side.
Using 4' I find the heavy spine side, then zone in on the desired spine and mark the center.
Then cut 3" longer on both sides of spine mark.
Rough straighten,, rough grind nodes, straighten, file nodes smooth,, remark spine point and cut to length. Semi-final straighten. Shaft done, all spines w/i 2# and heavy built to window.
I'm considering adding lengths of lead solder to the tails to match the heavies weight to keep them uniform..... maybe next time.
Mechslasher:
first off, are you using dowels for foreshafts or nocks? if using for foreshafts, then the joint is suppose to be the weak spot. most people getting into making cane arrows don't understand that the foreshaft is suppose to break off after impact to save the main shaft. "primitive man" figured this out and the reason, it's easier to find a straight piece of wood that is 4" long rather than 28" long. using foreshafted arrows have saved me countless hours of remaking cane shafts that would have been broken had the arrow been a simple shafted arrow. foreshafted arrows DO NOT like glancing blows, they will snap. as they are suppose to. i bounced a foreshafted arrow off a tree one time at a 3d target. the foreshaft stuck in the target but the mainshaft went on its own journey. but to answer your question, the taper method is the best of the two methods of attaching nocks or foreshafts.
to answer your second question. if your bow is 60#, then the stiffest side of your shaft should be 60# and against the shelf so the arrow can deal with the paradoxing . that is if your shooting a 28" shaft and a 125gr. point. if you're using 80# spined arrows, then you need to be shooting 225-250gr point with a 28" shaft. of course, you have to adjust spine for the amount of taper your cane has. if not using this weight point, then chances are your 80# arrows will hit way left. my formula for calculating arrow spine to too complicated to type, but it's usally dead on. hope all this helps.
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