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help with first bamboo arrows

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Bushbow:
A couple of things: First thing, give the shaft a good bend to see if it breaks, no point in wasting time on a weak shaft.  Try to straighten bent areas without heat, if they straighten without heat the shaft is too weak or too green. I usually look for 5/16" diameter a the nock (narrow) end. I think a self nock is better than a glue on nock for bamboo, eaisier to cut a nock than taper the bamboo . Flatten the nodes and sand the shaft AFTER you straighten the shaft. I think the nail points are superior to glue on taper points for bamboo (search threads field point). Some guys have also used screw in points (like for aluminum arrows), I have not tried those.

riarcher:
Not to disagree, but maybe add.


--- Quote from: coyote1956 on April 10, 2010, 10:01:58 pm ---when i go to cut my nock in the end, which end it the nock end, the larger end or smaller end?   I nock on the smaller too.

Do i cut the nock in directly behind a node say about 1/2" or so behind it?  this would leave the node directly in front of nock, correct?   then wrap sinew around below the cut in to strengthen the nock split area? I try to get into some nice round (centered) material behind a nock but where it lets me install the tip into good solid round material also.

Can you wash or wash and brush the green dye of the green ones?   Alchohol / Acetone seems to work but it never completely comes off. Since you mentioned sealing, you'll want to sand to the wood so your poly sticks well anyways. Electric drill & course paper to break thru the waxy stuff (it's insistant on staying), then hand sand to remove scratches going with grain.

OK I sand and smooth the shaft,  to straighten I use dry heat and bend by hand, just hot enuff to bend and not burn my hand, right?   ;D I cheat!  ;D Have electric heat. Found if I put about 10-12 shafts on the heater and waite about 1/2 with the heater on I can pretty much run through the whole bunch from end to end pretty quick. I bring them into "straight" in stages. I was pleasantly surprised to find how well it did work.  ;D

should i taper the front of shaft to install glue on point or leave squared off?  also i guess you can taper the nock end and use a glue on nock?  what glue works good for this bamboo points, nocks, feathers?  I've been using screw in points and step drill the shafts to the needed size. pith seems to really help keep them well centered (but I willbe using nails shortly) I wet with a "Q" Tip and use Gorilla Glue. Seems to work. I use self nocks, and tie the fletch on with Gudebrod "D" rod winding thread (only because I have it). Then I coat with poly. I'm waiting for the pines to start running and will be changing the whole game as things develope

Stiff side of shaft oriented towards bow riser?  I do.

and finally i plan to use brush on Polyurethane to seal shaft , OK?  Works for me.

--- End quote ---

That's what I'm doing. Not saying it's perfect, best or right. Works.

coyote1956:
RI Archer   thanks a bunch !!!   got that post saved for ref.    so much help, Thanks all of you, Ken

riarcher:
Ooops! Sorry. I lied.
I don't bother with brushes anymore.
I use a piece of rag. Easier to control, wipes on with controlable thickness, and no brush marks / drips / runs. (and they're cheap!  ;))

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