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All about spine.

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Pat B:
Art, I didn't make it to the coast for Bambusa at Christmas as I wanted but maybe this summer. You are on the top of my list!   Pat

mullet:
Art,Really glad to see you posting.I've found some bamboo I'm going to cut in a few days.The nodes are really far apart.I,m going to cut the tops out again like I did the arrow boo,they are about 25' high.The good thing is it's my neighbors and growing over my shop roof.I've also found two more places to get more arrow boo.Take care

Justin Snyder:
If you cannot understand the way length changes spine, try this.  Take a new pencil and grab the ends and break it. Now take one of the pieces and grab the ends and break it. Now take one of those pieces and grab the ends and try to break it.  It is still the same pencil diameter. Still just as tough/weak as it was when it was full length. But because it is shorter it SEEMS tougher.  The arrow is the same way. You cut it shorter and it reacts different even though it is the same arrow.  Justin

MattE:
I use a spine tester on factory made arrow but not on switch cane arrows. With cane arrows I found a problem getting a good read due to the location of the dynamic spine not being in the center of the shaft.I now size the base of the shaft for a general idea of its spine. I then shoot the shafts to get a bit closer to my desired spine for a given bow.   

artcher1:
You have any idea of their species Eddie. I tried the Japanese boo that Chris sent me but don't really care for them. Sasa boo is OK but their nodes are rather pronounced but shoot surprisingly well. Cane and bambusa I got from Pat are my favorites. Tonkin is excellent also. Anyhow, let me know if you think they'll make arrows and we'll work something out.

Gave my last set of Bambusa arrows away last year Pat. Can't keep cane arrows, everybody wants those. Found a few of each that I didn't know I had so that'll hold me for awhile. Going to hide these when I get 'em finished. Thanks again Pat.
 
Here's how I handle the problem of weight forward on cane/boo shafts Matte. I allow 10# for the shaft's natural taper and start a couple inches longer (for spine adjustment) then needed to begin with. I then find the center of the shaft and mark that. Next I balance the shaft on a pencil to find it's balance point. I then measure the distance between the two marks and then adjust the spine 5# for each 1/2" of difference. Example: If the marks show 1" difference between them then that additional 10# pounds I first added compensates for the difference and no additional spine would be needed (this is where that extra 2" of shafts length we started with would be used for spine adjustment if needed). That's seems to work really well as far as getting a good spine match in a set.-ART B

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