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Jeep troubles
sailordad:
well mechanic minds want to know
so what was it?
Justin Snyder:
Yes, what was it? Sounds like air bubbles to me. Most other problems take more time to manifest themselves if it was filled correctly.
Whenever I change head gaskets I take the heads in and had them milled and scoped. They are rarely flat if they have blown a head gasket, and milling makes them flat again. When they scope them they check for microscopic cracks in the head that will cause problems. It costs a little but saves a lot in the long run.
Badger:
I have a crew of 10 mechanics working for me and trying to get all of them to understand that the air has to be bled out before you release a car is like impossible. They always claimed they ran it long enough before putting the cap on and a customer will take off go about 2 miles and then overheat. Always happens to the same mechanics. I never though about evacuating the cooling system like an a/c system sounds like a good idea. I let them run until the thermostat is in the sty open position instead of the pulsating it goes into when warming up might take 30 min or longer. Steve
HatchA:
If the heater stopped blowing hot air before the head blew, it sounds to me like the heater rad busted a tube/pipe (possibly from the water freezing, if you've got snow going on there), the coolant slowly leaked out and the head finally blew.
I was gonna suggest the water pump but you said you got a new one along with a rad. Rust in the rad probably came from residue from the chambers of the motor itself as it probably wasn't flushed out when the pump and rad were changed.
I second Sailordad's advice regarding frequent close inspection of the head. Couple of things to be wary of... Make sure whoever repaired it skimmed the head properly AND used a Jeep gasket as the difference between brand name and spurious gaskets can be as much as 50% (as in: the spurious gasket is half as thin as the brand name make). Also, check that the head bolts have been torqued correctly. Personal experience showed me that not every mechanic knows how to use a torque-wrench properly :-\ >:(
Now I tend to do as much work on my own car myself.
Hope it all works out for you, man
Steve.
***EDIT***
--- Quote from: Badger on May 02, 2010, 06:53:28 pm --- I let them run until the thermostat is in the sty open position instead of the pulsating it goes into when warming up might take 30 min or longer. Steve
--- End quote ---
I carried out open stat surgery on a Subaru Legacy that kept overheating. Removed the stat altogether and the overheating stopped. Just meant the flow of water went the full way around from the get-go. Engine is still perfect!
Tsalagi:
Well, we replaced the head gasket and bolts and milled the head before that. The mechanic was trying to save my radiator, but said he was flushing tons of rust out of it. But it didn't work and it redlined the first few minutes out of the shop. So, he replaced the radiator and before that, flushed it again real good and did everything needed. He said all kinds of rust was coming out of it and it was the radiator just retaining all that crap that was the problem. So now it's running great. He did a few hours of work on it the second time he didn't bill me for and we worked out a trade for the radiator and labor, which helps me a lot.
The heater quit blowing hot air before this happened and it still won't blow hot air. So, I'm going to have him tackle that next. I'm going to keep a close eye on the coolant and radiator just in case I've got a leak from the heater rad. I'm going to check with the mechanic about that, too. He needs to swing by and pick up the thing I traded for the repair.
I think I got a bad deal from the mechanic that put in the previous radiator and water pump. It isn't the same mechanic.
Again, thanks for all the help. I feel a lot better about the repair knowing this.
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