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Next Grandson's bow

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WTK:
After 2 fail attempts I switched to all hickory and this one's holding together. I am disappointed in the amount of set that this one's picked up already. Has anyone heat treated the belly of a bow that's been glued up with urac.

Pappy:
No I haven't ,but if you are dealing with Hickory be sure to keep it very dry.How much set has it taken?Tiller is looking good so far.Is is backed or just a handle glued on? :)
   Pappy

WTK:
Pappy the moisture issue is what I'm concerned about. Our humidity here in New Mexico is low but the glue I used is Weldwood's plastic resin glue that is mixed with water. Thought about that this AM going to work so will try clamping the bow to the upper part of the form and adding heat to try and dry it out. I didn't measure the set but it's close to 4 inches which is way too much for a 48" bow. I make this style kids bow with a small curved riser core glued between 2 laminations. Then I glue the rest of the riser on the belly and shape that. Think I'll make the next one with more of a power lam that's longer and thinner in the middle to try and make the limb bend a little further out. This bows tiller is like this right out of the form.

Pappy:
Wow that looks good for not having done anything to it.I would do what you said and make sure it is good and dry Hickory is real bad on that.
   Pappy

tom sawyer:
Very nice looking bow.  How much set are you getting?  On a regular bow you expect a couple of inches, I suppose with a kids bow you would see at least an inch unless you are getting a low poundage right off the form as well.

I have had a devil of a time making kids bows too.  My problem was using too wide a design, which made the limb have to be super-thin and the thickness taper too fine to execute properly.  I finally got a shooter after going to about 1/2" width.

I've found that a R/D design seems to give me better results in the set department.  Is that what you are using, or did you just flip the tips a bit?

And how did you draw that nice ellipse?

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