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Osage Recurve
Psycho:
Well it's been awhile but I have been looking at my projects. I went and got married again and also purchased a new home. I also retired. This project was started sometime last year. Some may recognize the genesis of this project (first pic). 65" tip to tip, handle is white oak and choke cherry, limbs are 2" wide tapering to 3/4" at present, Limbs 1/2" thick at present with 3/4" thickness at tips for about 8"(second pic). I next plan to steam bend the tips but I think I have to reduce the thickness a bit. I will welcome all advice and recommendations. Thanks.
Psycho :-\
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USMC Sniper:
looks good but you might want that riser to blend in better, that one may pop off in its current state. more like this zebrawood riser on my r/d osage bow
other than that youve got a great start :)
OldBow:
Married again, retired, buying home, and making bows. Good job! Sounds familiar ;D
Psycho:
Thanks Sniper. I too fear the possibility of the handle popping off. Saw that as a problem when I first took off the split form the stave. I will probably find out when I work more on the tiller. Nothing happened when I initially got to the floor tillering stage. Can someone give me an idea about how thin I can go on the tips before I recurve them? I want a static recurve.
Psycho
Pat B:
You can probably go 1/2" to 5/8" on the tips before bending. Do you have a heat gun. With dry heat you can stress the heat bent area a few hours after heating. I usually wait overnight. With steam bending I'd wait at least a few days to be sure all the steam induces moisture was gone.
I've bent some pretty sharp curves using dry heat and oil coating. At 5/8" thick, even if a few splinters lift a little super glue and a rasp will take care of the problem. I always support the outside of the curves with a metal band as I'm bending. Pat
ps. If you only have steam for heating, coat the area to be steamed with shellac to help prevent it from taking on moisture.
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