Main Discussion Area > Bows

yew

<< < (2/3) > >>

Matti:
If the wood is a bit bad quality you could remove the sapwood completely and glue on a nice piece of hickory for backing. This would allow to make a warbow or a smaller target bow.

OldBow:
I love yew.  I bicycle up a nearby canyon (closed to motor vehicles) to get it  The wood is beautiful and easy to scrape.  It usually has lots of small knots which do not seem to weaken the limbs.  Like King Henry's Italian yew bows, longbows are the best design for It makes a very light weight but snappy bow.  Looking forward to seeing your progress.

tomm:
Thanks oldbow and guys. the knots aren't pin knots they are large some as large as 1" or more thats why I don't know if it has a bow of any size in it.  Well guess I'll just have to try and split it and see what I have left. thanks all tomm

Coo-wah-chobee:
........Tomm ...........I split from the small end. I also kerf with a circular saw and try to get as much good wood as I can. If knots are on one side like Pat said study the log. After I kerf I carefully split along the kerf. I do this with all wood so as to maximize staves and not waste wood. When I split I use small wooden wedges (hickory) as for me they work better than the big steel ones. I kerf about 1/4 to 1/2". Good luck....................bob

D. Tiller:
Tomm why dont you make some Hupa or Modoc designed bows from it. They would remove the sapwood and design the bow and then sinew back them so small knots are no problem because of the sinew and you end up with a very nice hunting weight bow great for brush or densly wooded country. Very light in the hand too with a great cast within hunting ranges. Start with the modoc design since it is easier to make, from everything I have heard, then advance to the Hupa style. You should be able to get quite a few bows out of the tree this way. The bow will likly draw only 20"-24" but you will have some great bows this way!

David T

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page