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ash sapling
mox1968:
going offshore for a couple of weeks so will leave in the shed with the bark on till I get back.I sealed with white carpenters glue at ends hope that works ok?I also cut down a sycamore stave same length diameter how does that do as a bow wood any one try that?
blair:
Mox, sorry for the hijack......toomanyknots, I'm surprised that a stiff handled Ash bow will take less set than a bend in the handle bow. I thought it would be the other way around? My first two bows are Ash with some bend in the handle, and right enough, they have both taken three inches of set. I didn't know about cooking them at that time though.
toomanyknots:
nidrinr: Ya, if I ever utilized heat treating I would probably have better success with narrower bows. Without heat treating the ash around here will take set if narrow. I live is midwest america. Probably totally different wood. But if you treat it right, you can make a great bow out of it. You make awesome bows btw.
Stiff handled will always take less set then working handle. Most set comes from the middle area of the bow. If it takes just a little set in the middle, it's alot more than if it took set outer limb. I think so anyway. For one, the wood is usually thicker at the handle and I know thicker wood takes set and keeps it more than thinner wood, like on the outer limbs, which time to time with a bow make appear to take an inch of set but bend back after 5 minutes of being unstrung. All the power is on the middle of the bow.
bow-toxo:
--- Quote from: mox1968 on July 26, 2010, 06:54:40 pm ---I found a nice straight ash sapling tonight about 8ft long and 2 1/2" wide would this be wide enough to make a D bellied longbow/warbow from or do you guys think too thin??
--- End quote ---
Nydam bows as well asViking bows from Sleswig were made from saplings of 1 3/4" to 2 1/4" in width. Of course they were yew, but your sapling seems wide enough.
Erik
backgardenbowyer:
I'd heat treat the belly and keep the belly flat - pretty much rectangular in cross section. Use the under bark surface for the back. Some of the Mary Rose bows were this shape so it was used historically. The only ash I've used from young trees was very poor and chrysalled easily even in a flat bow, but I think it varies a lot. Denser wood is certainly preferable.
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