Main Discussion Area > Bows
Set Question (pics)
George Tsoukalas:
Congratulations on your bow. I'm from the "if it ain't broke don't fix it school". Enjoy you bow. Since you asked, the upper limb is bending well but needs more bending near the handle. The lower limb is doing most of its bending mid limb. You didn't mention how wide you made it. Where you told the wood was dry? Jawge
snedeker:
One really out there althernative, that I don't necessarily endorse, would be to cut an inch off either end, sand off finish, and reverse it. Put silt on the belly and re-tiller of what is now the back. Would be interesting to see how it worked. The comment about the draw depth is a good one.
Put silk on belly that is. the other must have seem like some kind of magical rite.
Dave
Coo-wah-chobee:
Good advice given here. I agree with Jawge , leave it alone. Is that your draw? Bow will still take deer sized animals if you do your part. Measure set like Pappy from back to tips. Good luck on next one , will be a next one Iam sure.............bob
woody:
Thanks everybody for all of the encouragement and advice. I have enjoyed viewing pics of some of your fine craftmenship, and it means a lot to me to read such kind words.
I think I'll do as Kowechobe, George Tsoukalas, and Pat B have suggested and leave it be. Besides, I could be working on another bow. : -)
My draw may be wrong. I haven't been shooting for long and don't know some of the finer points of shooting style or proper positioning or whatever. Could anybody recommend a good shooting book or video that covers these points?
Also, the wood was cut over a year before I began working on it. It was a quarter split stave from a medium diameter tree (don't remember how big it was). It sat in my very dry basement for that time. Moisture probably wasn't a problem. Although, I couldn't say for sure.
The width was 2" at the fade outs tapering in pretty straight lines (there was some propeller twist in the lower limb) to just over 1/2" nocks.
Thanks again.
Pat B:
The book that tought me about instinctive shooting is..."Instinctive Shooting" by G. Fred Asbel. He believes in a fluid stance and draw and it fit my liking from the start. Fred usually has a few articles in the archery magazines about shooting and solving shooting problems. Easy read and very informative.
With osage, you will fair better with a bow that is narrower than the 2" you used. That may have also added to the suceptability to take set. 1 3/8" to 1 5/8" is usually good for osage, with a straight taper to 3/8"tips. I'm in the process of making an osage bow that is 7/8" to 3/4" for most of its length and 61" long. She pulls 42#@24" but I haven't finished sanding yet so it may be a bit less. If I had concentrated on this splinter I could have easily gotten 45# or more at 26". It doesn't take much osage to make a good bow. Osage has good compression strengths so a thicker but narrow limb is possible and prefered.
Your stave could have had a bit more moisture even after a year. If stave had been taken down to almost bow size it would dry quicker. An old rule of thumb is 1 year per inch of thickness.
Now! go get started with that new bow! ;D Take your time, don't draw it past its ultimate draw length or weight and exercise the limbs between wood removal...and
Take plenty of pics. Pat
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version