Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
72" yew war bow
SimonUK:
Hi Jeremy
Cambium on the backs? Does that mean the sapwood was left full thickness? I tried making a bow like that but it was all sapwood at the tips.
sagitarius boemoru:
"Full thickness" of sapwood on a small diameter stave with high ringcount is still very thin layer. (Well because the rings are thin - right?)
But yes - the logs they cut for staves were relativelly small diameter which causes the back of the bow be crowned and the rings running semicircular in the profile.
Your squared profile is too much squared. The squared profile on MR bows i more oval with small flats on sides and we have genesis of this. It looks more like normal oval profile blown up over the dimensions of squared stave, if you copy me.
You start with a squared stave and make width taper, then you make thickness tapper, all based on experience, then you facet sides from belly to side, but not in 45 degree angle, but somehow less.
Then you round belly up to the facet - and the small flat surfaces on sides of your stave will magically appear.
Then you tiler only thickness and wont touch anything else.
Jaro
SimonUK:
I have a question about rounding off the corners of the back in areas where there are clusters of pins.
The yew stave i'm working on has clusters of pins (covering about 1 or 1.5 cm square) at various places along the back. If I round off the corners of the back, what should it do at these places?
Option 1: don't round off so much at these areas therefore making it stronger
Option 2: do what it says in the Bowyers Bible concerning decrowning and keep the growth rings parallel when viewed from the back
Option 3: leave a couple of extra growthrings at these areas and round off to the same degree as the normal areas of the back. This will mean the view from the back will show the growth rings bending a bit and skirting around the area of pins.
Any ideas anyone?
Pat B:
After a bit more work I got her to brace and since yesterday I have brought her to where she is now. From the pics I can see the top limb(left) is bending too much at the handle area and not enough out the limb. Right now she is pulling 87#@26". I know she won't make war bow weight but at least maybe I will be able to shoot her. ;) The first pic is at 5 1/2" brace, 2nd is at 24" and the 3rd is at 26".
I have rounded the back as suggested and would like some more suggestions on where to go from here. ??? Please be honest...but gentle ::) Pat
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Matti:
Pat,
The tiller is not in balance. I would remove wood from the left limb tip and from the first 3rd of the right side. Then it'll be pretty close to ready.
BTW, from my short experience with heavy bows I have noticed it's best to first make sure the limbs are symmetrically bending and the tips bend also. The middle of the bow can be a bit stiff because it will bend only at full draw. That's why it's wise to save the handle area for the last tillering touches.
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