Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
What is "Warbow"
D. Tiller:
I think we may need to differentiate warbows into two classes. It seems that we know for certain what warbows looked like in later days from the finds on the Mary Rose. These I would designate Mary Rose Warbows. There are also those bows we speculate may have been built earlier. These I would call Possable Pre-Mary Rose Warbows. I still think limitting the weight of the bow to 90# and over is a bit pre-mature for the reason I stated in an earlier post. Increased draw weights were likly a result of increases in strength of armor. If we can match this against strength of armor over time back to the beginning of the use of warbows I bet we could draw a correlation to possible draw weights. Probably shaft size of arrows also increased over time. Its speculation but a good possibility.
David T
Justin Snyder:
D Tiller The major advantage of the bow is being able to kill the enemy before he can kill you. Archers stood very little chance against mounted knights at close range. If you have 3000 men comming after you, you DO NOT wait until they are close then try to kill them all before they close the distance. I would suggest that the weight was much more than armor penetration. If I can start killing at a greater distance, there is a better chance of me getting the enemy stopped before they get me. Furthermore, most of the guys they were shooting were on foot, and the armor was too dang heavy to wear while walking.
I would like to see other types of wood used. I plan to build an osage in the warbow style. It will be titled English warbow STYLE bow. I also think in the interest of not letting the art die lighter bows for guys who cannot draw 100 pounds should be posted. But it should be labeled 60# English Warbow Style LIGHT WEIGHT bow. You would not bring a pellet gun to a gun fight, so do not call it a warbow if it isn't. Justin
jb.68:
Are we not getting a bit anal about this guys? I have two bows built to the M/R style, they are 100lb @ 32" and 105lb @ 32" they are laminates but they are to all intent and purpose warbow replicas, I cannot be arsed to keep calling them replicas, warbow style or any other politicaly correct name. I can't afford to chuck 650 notes on a real yew bow. So therefore these are as close as I get to a warbow. if that upsets anyone I'll gladly clear off. Btw to the person who made reference to firing arrows.... We don't, we shoot or loose 'em... if were being really anal :-* ;)
D. Tiller:
JB.68 I agree totally. I'm with you on the money thing. I would love to fork out for yew but just cant do it right now. Have some lowdown on some Osage so may go and pick some of that up to turn into a warbow in the 80# range.
I too think any wood should be a go too. Lets not get too technical either. We are suposed to be having fun with this stuff not argueing over technicalities. Personally I'm out to really just enjoy the design and have fun. If you want to replicate the design to the T for scientific purposes go ahead and go for it. If not go for it too. I'm comming to the conclusion semantics will just force us appart and not together as this site is supposed to do. Maybe we should just mention if we are working to do a study or not. Seems good for me.
alanesq:
I think it depends what you want;
If your aim is to experience shooting a warbow then laminate bows are ideal (being cheap)
If your aim is to have a acurate replica of a medieval warbow then you need a self bow etc.
btw - It seems a good way of knowing if your bow is a warbow is when archery clubs wont let you use it ;-)
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