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Requesting Help with First Bow

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1/2primitive:
As for the list, Alder, Basswood and soft maple are not good bow woods (I don't remember hearing anything about mahogany and I don't know what jatoba is, so I don't know what to tell you about those) but the others will make good bows.
And I sgree with Dana, it's all about the grain. Watch the grain. Oh, and there's the grain to watch out for. :)
And along with Hillbilly, I'd use a it thicker board, I've had some trouble with the riser falling off on a narrow one.
      Sean

Lost Arra:
>>I'll have some good straight boards, a clean garage and be be ready to get started.<<

I'm not familiar with either of those.

CharrDad:
Seems like everyone agrees that 1" -1 1/4" board is better if I'm using a riser. Should I just not include a riser? Jawge, I know you suggested a bend through the center design. That has no riser. Correct. I'm not looking to make it too difficult, I just like the way it looks when a contrasting wood is used for the handle. I'm open to either, and am certainly smart enough to listen to you who have the experience.

CharrDad

tom sawyer:
Check out the thread about D-bows for some reasons why a bendy handle design is a good idea.

CharrDad:
Tom, Your comments from the D-bows thread:

I like them because you are less likely to get set near the handle, than a stiff-handled bow with fades.  But you can still leave the handle area slightly raised and have a semi-bendy handled design that only works slightly through the handle.  That has better shooting manners when you are talking about higher poundages (over 50lb).

Is this the design Jawge advocates on his board bow instructions?

CharrDad

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