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Yeomanbowman:

--- Quote from: sagitarius boemoru on May 09, 2007, 06:35:58 am ---Bough bow, very cranky. One side stave 2´´ reflex, other deflex. One limb off the axis, other torqued.

Brace looks rather funny.

http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/myyewbowbrace.JPG

But nicely round when drawn

http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/myyewbow.JPG

69´´ - 90#/32´´

J.

--- End quote ---
Nice bow Jaro,
As you are aware the bole stave was regarded more highly in medieval times, over a bough stave.  The latter is far more sustainable as the wood can be harvested.  Do you feel this was due to the lower proportion of sap to heartwood and lesser pins.  However, your bow seems to be the exception.
J

sagitarius boemoru:
Yes I know it. The true strenght of yew, particulary in warbow is in heartwood. So when there is lots of sapwood, the stave just gets very much elastic. (Like that of mine).
I made a bow from Lincolnshire yew for Daniel and I took almost all the sapwood away and it has pretty crisp feeling.





Lazy bastard he is. He has it since autumn and havent even drawn it yet. I even gave him strenght ash bow...of no use.


Jaro

D. Tiller:
Nice bows Jaro! Wondering what type wood might be simmilar to yew for making a close arpoximation when backed with something like pignut hickory. Yeah, I know its not what was used back then but just want to get a bow to shoot in simmilar style without breaking the budget. I've tried yellowhear (satinwood) Seems ok but not as zippy. Seemed to get its best results when made arround 75" or so long. Ipe seemed just a bit too dence and had to make one way too thin to get it to work properly, was a pain to hang onto while drawing. Going to try Elm next for a belly wood with a Hickory backing. If I ever get some time off that is!  ;D

sagitarius boemoru:
Hard maple for about 75# with hickory backing work well..

http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/retileredbow.JPG

Here is such one.

Jaro

D. Tiller:
Maybe extend the length for a bit longer draw? I was thinking maybe arround 77" (196 cm) length nock to nock for arround 80# and then putting a layer of silk on the back to keep down any frets just in case. Think elm would work? If elm how wide at the handle should I aim for. I was thinking arround 1 3/4" (4.45 cm) arround the same in depth maybe a bit more. Then tapering to 1/2" (1.27 cm) nocks.

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