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Using reflex

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DCM:
Rest between tillering session is one aspect I practice just out of necessity.  I generally get 30 minutes to an hour in the evening and as slow as I go it frequently takes 5 to 10 tillering sessions before I'm done.  Of course the last 5 are just very minor tweaking, where it's basically done and I don't take more than a pound or two out of the bow.

Pappy:
Ya DanaM that is what my wife says  ;D she also says it always has to go there with you guys.
   Pappy

DanaM:
She's a wise woman Pappy.

dana

Justin Snyder:
I don't usually keep much reflex at all.  I have tried more to begin and less to begin. I wonder if it has to do with the length of draw.  If you go with DCM's theory that with 1 inch of reflex a 28" draw is the equivalent of a 29" draw. My 2 inch reflex stave would be a 31" draw to the bow.  It does add early draw weight, but at the point where the string stops, it quits putting energy into the arrow. So even though it would add a couple of more pounds at brace, it would leave more energy in the bow.  If I could just get the brace height down without slapping my wrist.  Anyway, back to Pappy's point.  I would imagine that the extra stress of extreme reflex making the limb tips travel the same distance as a 31" draw, could be doing damage to the belly cells and making it loose the extra reflex. Kind of like the bow Steve was referring to the other day that started loosing performance after 24".  He suspected it was damage to the belly cells. 

Well this much I know for sure, I have added 6 inches of reflex and been left with nothing.  And I have added 2 inches and been left with 1 1/2".  I think I will quit trying to stress the wood so much.   ;)  Justin

Badger:
I remember several years ago Dan Perry posting that he felt anymore than about 1" of reflex was overkill. I used to think for very high early draw weight reflex was the opnly way to get it. You can have very high early draw weight with no reflex at all, you can end up with a bow building at just over 2# per inch at the end of the draw with zero reflex. My little mass method I use seems to drive the design, kind of takes it out of my hands to some degrees and the bow will take on a shape of it's own depending on the wood and length etc. The bows are comming out quite a bit wider than I used to make them. Demensions more similar to jawges. If you are monitoring draw weight at a level where extending draws does not affect draw weight when you go back to a reference draw point, only shaving wood should affect draw weight, if the bow drops in draw weight just because it was drawn a bit further, then plain and simple, some wood got damaged. This past year since I started monitoring the bows performance at the begaining of the tillering process my perspective of wood has changed 180 degrees. I was getting pretty good performance underbuilding bows and not knowing it. But once I figured out a way to do a better job monitoring my demensions as I built the bow, my bows went to a new level, more durable, and faster. I also found out a wider bow can have less mass than a narrower bow! Not because physics says so but because they can have less dead wood on them.  Steve

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