Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
MR sidenocks
Bueskytter:
--- Quote from: stevesjem on July 08, 2008, 07:30:15 am ---Which early medieval yew longbows were these ones then?
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http://www.vikingsna.org/translations/hedeby%20bows/
Norse longbows were most often self-nocked, and were mainly made of yew.
bow-toxo:
--- Quote from: YewArcher on June 20, 2008, 10:11:46 pm ---I am going to start using them on my 90#er. I do not care for horn nocks all that much so will just use self side nocks in the yew. I just have a feeling that its a gonna be hard stringing the bow with side nocks and timber hitches. anyone have any sugestions?
SJM
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I use the self side nocks on my Nydam and Viking pattern bows.I have had no poblem with a single loop string tied with a timberhitch at the lower nock. The string loop must fit pretty close however. Sidenocked horn tips are more tricky and have to be very well fitted.
Gaius1311:
Hello,
My name is Mark Headlee and I am new to this forum as a member, though I have been reading the posts for some time. I hope I learn and share some of my experiences with longbow - warbow archery.
First, I am in the process of researching and possibly having an accurate reproduction MR warbow built. It has been quite a chore, but research is 99% of the total project, the finished bow is just part.
I would like to ask if there is anyone who sells or is willing to make for me the sidenocks based on the MR artifacts. I ask since there are members how have researched them in person and I do not want to make a "ok" copy based on what I can deduct from internet pictures. I'm striving for accuracy, not acceptability.
If there is anyone please contact me via PM or at my below email address. I would be very interested in speaking with you.
Thanks,
Mark
mheadlee(at)bresnan(dot)net
Davepim:
Hi Mark,
There is only the one horn sidenock from the Mary Rose; you should find photos in this thread. If you buy horn sidenocks ready-made from someone else, you'll have a lot of trouble making the tips of your bow fit exactly, which they must do, without any voids between wood and horn. Some bowyers taper the tips of their bows with, essentially, a large pencil-sharpener, so that the cone has straight sides and then they can drill out the horn with a triangular bit. This is inaccurate; the original MR bows have gently tapering tips, and you need to make a drill bit that follows this idea. See the photo here:
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll219/Davepim/Davepim%20%204/
Don't forget that the diameter of the bow tip where it enters the horn nock is about 12-14mm and the depth inside the horn should be about 45mm. I am not an expert on sidenocks, but I find that when the nock is finished (bar the cutting of the groove) it can be glued on and then the string groove cut with a fine rat-tailed file or tile saw, all the way through to the wood beneath, as was done with the originals.
Cheers, Dave
alanesq:
I have put all the info I have managed to find on sidenocks here:
http://alanesq.com/sidenock.htm
if you look at this pic
http://www.alanesq.com/longbow/sidenock/diagram.jpg
this is an archaeological diagram I received from the Mary Rose Trust which is about the best source I know of for dimensions etc.
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