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Finally finished!

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Lloyd:
The tips I have that I think look like 9a's are diamond shaped in cross section. They normally come off looking square in pictures but in person you can tell they are diamond shaped.
Top one hand forged, bottom two are machined. It's easier to tell on the machined one that they are not square, although they are really more type 9's than 9a's. The hand forged one is also presenting one face flat to the camera which makes it look even more square.

sagitarius boemoru:
Lozenge is indeed the best profile. The problem with the outline of the arrowhead is - if too pointy it will roll or break on impact and if too steep it wont cut.

J.

sagitarius boemoru:
And! Nice job Lloyd.

J.

SimonUK:
Yes those arrows really are professionally made. How do you get that neat fit between shaft and head? I've been using a penknife then the edge of a file to make the shoulder flat.

Lloyd:

--- Quote from: SimonUK on June 24, 2007, 04:04:03 pm ---Yes those arrows really are professionally made. How do you get that neat fit between shaft and head? I've been using a penknife then the edge of a file to make the shoulder flat.

--- End quote ---

Very carefully! Actually I cheat :o. I use an arrow saw to cut a groove that matches the internal diameter of the socket to get a good clean shoulder. Then I finish the taper with knife, files saws etc.... For arrows with machined heads I usually use a belt sander to grind the taper. For hand forged heads I try to keep the power tools to a minimum, usually just the one cut for the shoulder, unless I'm feeling lazy that day.

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