Main Discussion Area > Bows
Lessons learned osage recurve (not for BOM)
Ryano:
Keep it up Greg. Your getting there. You will notice my are tillered a little differently than yours. More bend in the outer limbs just before the curves. Your right these kind of bows are by far the hardest type to make to my experience, but well worth the effort in the end. :)
Pat B:
I shot a bow Art B made that is sinew backed osage using TBIII. That bow shot great(all of Arts bows shoot great ;D) He said that the main thing that effects TBIII and sinew is cold by adding weight.
TBIII, being water proof will repell water if you get caught in a rain storm but I believe high humidity will still effect the bow somewhat. On My Elkie bow(sinew backed osage) I used TBIII to set the last course of sinew(first 2 were with Knox) and added snake skin with TBIII, then covered the skin with TBIII. I then added 3 coats of Tru-Oil and finally 2 coats of Spray Poly.
When I made the bow it came out 56#@26". A month later it was at 45#@26" from the humidity. I sent it to Colorado 2 weeks before I went out to hunt and when I got there it was back to 55# and a month after that(I left the bow with Kenneth) it was up to over 70#. So, even with all the protection I used, R/H still had an effect. Pat
GregB:
The limbs seem to be under so much stress, that I'm timid about drawing to far very early during tillering. That's probably why the bow originally came out lite in weight. I kept thinning the limbs to get them bending easier because I couldn't believe they could take the punishment with greater limb thickness. Probably should have got more outer limb bending to even it out more as Ryan mentioned.
Ryano:
here's a full draw on one of my bows off the same form.
[attachment deleted by admin]
GregB:
Ryan,
It does look like your limbs are flexing more up to about 8" or so of the tips. What kind of draw weight do you usually try to get?
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version