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My first bodkins (pics)

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Kviljo:
Just thought I'd share some more photos.

Mark Stretton has forged the one on the shaft. I think I've been a bit too much influenced by that point, because almost none of my points are under 1/2" size, hehe.

I started on a type 16 too, but I'm struggeling with the splitting and making the point pointy. ::)




And a group photo. That's the head of my new selfmade paddle by the way :) Haven't tried it yet, but I think it got a bit too narrow.





Click these links for larger pictures:

http://kviljo.no/bue/smi2/a.jpg

http://kviljo.no/bue/smi2/b.jpg


The whole forge cost me about 200$, because a bought a way too expensive board to make the bellow. ::)


When the forge is hot, and the blank is just not hot enough to hammer, it only takes a couple (5-15 perhaps - didn't count) of pumps to make it glow again. But it really depends on how thick the blank is, and how well the coal is covering the blank, plus how far it is placed from the air flow.


Oh, and you need a couple of spare hands. Mine is starting to wear out already.

SimonUK:
Kviljo, how do you get the flattened bit starting to curve?

John Marshall used some sort of U shaped groove and hammered the centre of the flat bit into the U with the thin end of the hammer. Then he used a bit of tapered metal and hammered the socket round it. Do you do the same thing?

Kviljo:
Nope, but if I had a real anvil with some accessories, I would do the same. But it works okay to do it on a flat surface too. Get it to curve just a little, hammer on it vertically, and it curls up nicely almost by itself :)

duffontap:
Couldn't you shape the socket around a piece of re bar ground to a point?  That way you could get some consistency. 

              J. D. Duff

Kviljo:
Yep, bet that would work well. I'm going to fetch a big old anvil some day soon now, so I'll make some tools for it. Though I've found out that it really isn't neccessary to get a nice socket, it sure would be a lot easier.

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