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shrink wrap for composite clamps?

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bowstick:
The bigest problem is actually has the easiest solution... To keep the parts still... just use a table vice and a few spring clamps to start.  You wrap the bow first, then put it in the block mold and Walla!

The stretch wrap work great even on Reflex deflex bows.   Just use 5" wide and 120 guage or thicker and its better than bike tubes



And notice you only need 2 c-clamps for the whole process.  This system simplified our bow making and nearly cut our production more than in half. 

or if you just want to use simple spring clamps...


The end result is all the same, a nice RD stave ready to turn into a bow


I've only bowgrip 100 on this process... which is a 2 part epoxy which also is a gap filling glue.  Doesnt require heat to cure but takes near 48 hours to get to full strength without heat and only about 2-4 hours with heat.     

I am going to do an experiment tommorow with just tightbond... see how well it holds it shape. i will post pics for anybody interested.

kerbinator:
I have used stretch wrap with bow grip and it worked really well. But when I tried it with Tite Bond III it was like putting the glue back in the bottle it just didn't seem to cure out as well. I too got this Idea from the PA article.

Pat B:
The water from water based glues has to go somewhere and if you prevent it from evaporating because of the shrink wrap it will just go into the wood or not cure at all. With other types of glue like Urac or the epoxies the shrink wrap should work fine. My problem with it is that there is a lot of non-biodegradable material left over to dispose of. >:(    Pat

Justin Snyder:

--- Quote from: Pat B on July 13, 2007, 11:31:03 am --- My problem with it is that there is a lot of non-biodegradable material left over to dispose of. >:(    Pat

--- End quote ---
This can be a chore to clean up.  If you wrap it tight, it will force the glue that does come out the sides onto the back and belly of the bow.  That just makes the clean up even worse.  Justin

bowstick:
#1  Yes, there is a lot of non-bio degradable material afterwards.  The good thing is that when its time to remove the wrap, you can simply use a razor on the belly edge of the bow to split open the "Shell" peel away the wrap in 2-3 large sections... occasionally in one shot.  And then throw it in the plastic recycle bin :)  Once you have the system down its very simple

#2  Re-guardless of what glue I use I normally toss it in the heat box for a little bit... I didn't get around to doing the titebond RD bow today, but once I do, I am going to throw it in the heat box for 2 hours at 160 degrees... hopefully it will evaporate the water in the water based glue ... but again, this is all Research and development at this point in time.  I'm confident it can be done with the correct steps taken.

#3 When you wrap tight it does get pressed onto the back and belly of the bow, this is true.  If you are using a flat backing such as hickory or fiberglass, you can simply put masking tape down first.  Also, put the masking tape on the belly of the bow... then afterwards just peel the tape off and it is clean as can be.  Bamboo can be trickier.  Normally we just let it get on the back of the bow and then use a pocket knife to scrape the glue off... if you haven't sanded through the rhind yet, the glue will pop right off in large chunks... then just hand sand with 150 grit.   But I found the real trick but I just don't do it each time.  Before you wrap it up, use PAM Spray or any oil on the back of the bamboo, just the back... Then the glue really has nothing to stick to.  Its a great trick and really works.

Hope this info can be of help to anyone.

Justin

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