Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
Home Depot Garden Stake Bamboo Arrow Build-A-Long (Pic Heavy)
DC:
It would work but whether it would be worth the extra wait for it to normalize, if that even applies. If you were doing it over a pot of boiling water it would probably be slower. Ah ship, give it a try, it won't hurt anything.
loon:
--- Quote from: Pat B on April 04, 2016, 04:22:37 pm ---I used to cut nocks at a node but don't anymore. It's not necessary. I do try to set the nock end up so the fletching doesn't lay across a node but has a clear internode to lay on. I also don't add a filer to the center of cane arrows, point or nock end. Sinew wraps will hold everything together. My 30" hill cane arrows are about 5/16" at the nock and 3/8" at the point(55#@26"draw). I find it hard to make a matched set of cane arrows so I make them one at a time and see how they shoot individually. I pick the best shooters for hunting, the good shooters for target and 3D and with the poor shooters I make fluflus.
--- End quote ---
I just split one that wasn't filed at the node... but I've split some that were as well. Maybe the sinew wrapping wasn't enough/should've used glue :/
It was poorly filed on one side, sort of narrow
loon:
A heat gun is making it easier, at a rather low setting for it (750 for large zones, I guess 550 or 450 for acute bends in a small area). Seems like I can take care of bending between nodes, but at the nodes all sorts of weirdness happens, I just end up putting a bend right next to the nodes. Sometimes it's hard to tell if it's at the node or near the node, or I put bend near the node when trying to take bend out of a node. This is with my hands this way (from the choctaw school website)
Previously I was doing it by grabbing the arrow with one hand and pushing it against the heel of that hand with my other hand.
I have one which is almost sort of done, has 2 bends I have to take out. One near the nock I already cut and one near the head. But it's a rather short arrow, 27" or so draw..
Also, has anyone had experience with which way to put the arrow makes a difference? If you put the thinner end towards the point, does it act stiffer or weaker than the other way around? Hoping I can find out today..
After a few times of spending several minutes cutting shafts with a serrated knife, I found out that just putting a knife (or chisel if you're afraid of ruining it somehow i dunno) and hammering it onto a shaft with a stone I found somewhere works pretty fast. But if the knife is thick or not sharp enough, the bamboo will split. :\
jeffp51:
I like to straighten between the nodes first, then let it cool completely (work on another shaft) then I can see how much the node needs to move. If I put the node right on the edge of my bending tool (stick from my tree out back) I can focus the bending force right on the node. It will bend a little on either side too, but on the third pass that can be straightened. It takes several sessions to get all the bends out. Be patient.
loon:
For the duplex nail points, does anyone put it on a drill but not use a grinder, but just spin the nail's head on a rock or something? It'd probably turn a lot of the rock to dust..
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