Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
Persimmon Build-Along
Dazv:
how's it coming along?
BowEd:
Matt...I've got a friend coming up from southern Missouri Sunday with some persimmon logs I'm assuming just cut this fall.I've never worked on persimmon yet.It looks like the sapwood is off of yours correct?I've read you can leave it on.It looks like some beautiful wood.Interlocking grain in it might be the reason chunks want to come out sometimes reducing wood.I'm thinking of treating it like hickory.The first dozen and a half bows I did with a hatchet too.Really does slow things down to avoid mistakes that's for sure.My farriers' file gets a lot of use too.These logs I'm getting I'm figuring on splitting and removing bark and maybe sapwood too.Shellacing things over good as I've heard it likes to warp or twist when drying.The design looks good your using.A real deer slayer.I'll be watching your build and thanks for sharing it.
BowEd:
Boy I don't know what I was thinking asking you about removing sapwood.Sorry.Persimmon is all sapwood.I just got through taking off the bark from a stave here.Lighter colored wood than I figured.Orangish colored cambium and there's your back.Does'nt seem as dense as hickory though.Even though Bowyers' Bible says it is supposed to be .74 density.
Matt S.:
--- Quote from: Beadman on November 29, 2011, 12:38:42 pm ---Boy I don't know what I was thinking asking you about removing sapwood.Sorry.Persimmon is all sapwood.I just got through taking off the bark from a stave here.Lighter colored wood than I figured.Orangish colored cambium and there's your back.Does'nt seem as dense as hickory though.Even though Bowyers' Bible says it is supposed to be .74 density.
--- End quote ---
Correct, the back of the bow is the wood directly under the bark. The ends and back were sealed with I believe shellac. I didn't split this stave, it was a gift from gmc.
--- Quote from: Dazv on November 23, 2011, 08:09:36 am ---how's it coming along?
--- End quote ---
Slowly but surely ;)
I'm to the point where I'm starting my initial thickness taper. On my board bows this is very easy: measure a distance in from the back at the handle fades, say 1/2" and mark. Measure about 3/8" from back at tip and mark. Connect the dots and there you have your thickness taper guide! It's not so easy with a stave. My goal is to get the thickness taper as close to optimal as possible before stressing the limbs. Ideally, if I can get the taper correct from the start, the rest of the tillering process will be reducing weight and tweaking only.
I'm also working on a few other bows, so that's another reason for the s l o w progress on this persimmon. I WILL keep this post updated though :)
bubby:
Matt, look's like you have some natural deflex, ya gonna flip the tip's? Bub
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version