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Ocean Spray sapling build allong

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Elktracker:
Ok so here is the sapling I am going to start on its a Ocean Spray (Iron Wood) and is hard to find a good sapling with any size in most places but I have some decent size stuff in my area on the coast (Netarts).

This particular sapling is 1" at one end and 3/4" at the end toward the ceiling. It is pretty darn straight and has a small crook near the grip wich should be nice because it will help get me more of a center shot and arrow spine shouldnt be as critical because the arrows wont have to flex around the bow as much. I should be able to get some progress done on this tonight and tomorrow.

I am shooting for 50# at 26" of draw and will leave the handle area stiff, this sapling is 68" long but I may have to shorten it if I under shoot the draw weight but we will see what happens




This is the side profile of the sapling, as you can see it has a small amount of reflex. The back of the bow is facing up in this picture. I have trimmed a small amount of the one limb with a band saw to remove some checking or cracks in the belly of the bow to see how deep they went and I am all clear.


Bear with me as I only have usually 1 night a week to work on bows but ill try not to drag this out to long  ;)

Josh

Elktracker:
Ok so first I will show you the main tools I use to tiller.



Then there is the tiller tree


The stave press I was gifted from John Strunk, a vice will also work with something in it to protect the wood while working on it.



 My very messy shop/basement/dungen sorry about the mess!

Elktracker:
So the first thing I do is measure the length of the stave I am working on and find the center, after finding center I decide what limb will be my top limb. When deciding on this I look at where the string will alighn down the stave from end to end and if its not down the center I like the string to favor the side of the bow that the arrow rests.

Also I take into account knots, twists, turns or rollercoaters to determine how I want the bow layed out. I usually try to make the stronger looking limb the bottom as it is usually taking more stress then the top limb.

Once I decide what limb is top I go back to the center mark and measure up toward the top limb 1" and make a mark, then I measure 3" down from the center mark toward the bottom limb and also mark it, This will be my grip and it will be a 4" grip. This is what it looks like when its marked out. Also this is just the way I lay out a grip because it balances good in my hand and its the way I have always done it.


The next thing I do is start my limb thickness taper, I start the taper right off of the grip, this is called the fades where the grip fades into the limb. While doing this I am constantly standing back looking at the limb to spot out any thick spots and also feeling for them as I go, always being very carefull not to get caried away and take to much wood off. Its real easy to turn a 50 pound bow into a 30 or 40# bow if your not carefull and rush things.


And here it is after I have it where I think its a even taper from the grip down to the tip


After this I check to see how its bending and to what we call floor tillered, in the picture you can see its not a perfect arc (and it should be closer) but I had it bending good so I moved to the other limb and when that was floor tillered it was ready for a string (not going to go into making strings). Also for me I like to get the limb bending a fair amount before cutting string grooves and long string.


Then I measure out the tapers for the tips, I like a light tip, it makes for a fast smooth shooting bow. I start the measurment at 1/2" at the tip and I will take that down as im finishing it


I usually come back from the tip around 9" or so with the limb tip taper but its just a number you can do what works for your particular bow.


Then I carfully cut them out, I always cut on the outside of the line to allow for human error.


And this is what it looks like once cut out

Elktracker:
Then I start the string grooves, I measure an even distance from the center mark out each limb to mark the string grooves. I file them in at 45 degree angle roughly.




Then I sand the rough sharp edges smooth so they dont damage the string.



Then I fix a problem I found earlier


I use this stuff it soaks into small cracks well and works great, it is a little spendy but cheaper if you buy it by the case. and notice what it says NO SKILL REQUIRED so for me it is perfect ;D


Then I clamp it for 15 minutes or so.


Then its up on the tiller tree for a light work out and a check of the tiller, I see a couple stiff spots on both limbs I will need to fix but thats another day.



Also if any one wants to throw out suggestions comments or concerns let me know thanks.

Josh

Elktracker:
Also I wanted to add a little test I did on this Ocean Spray and it is tough stuff! it was almost folded in half before it broke and this pice was just shy of 3/4"



Then I let off to see what it looked like not bad at all, this stuff is tough as nails and really springs back!


Then I went for it


right befor it whipped out and cracked me in the ankle lol


Then I killed it >:D

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