Main Discussion Area > Bows

Osage Stave Question

<< < (2/3) > >>

Hillbilly:
If you look at the rings on the end, each ring is composed of a band of dark colored wood which is hard and dense-the good stuff-(latewood) and a band of lighter colored spongy weak stuff (earlywood). So what you want is for the dark rings to be thicker than the light colored ones.

Pappy:
The thinner the better on the light wood. :)
   Pappy

Pat B:
Most of my osage bows these days are 60" t/t(for 26" draw; but I tiller them out to 28"). Some have good rings and ratios and others are not so good. I make most of my bows about 55#@26"(on my bow scale ::) ). If you are worried about your ability or the staves ability, you could back it with sinew, linen, silk or brown paper bag. Only the sinew will increase performance but the other backings will help hold it together.    Pat

1/2primitive:
IMO, you should be fine without sinew backing it for that draw weight and draw length. I would make the handle area pretty small though, to give yourself more working limb.
    Just as an example, I made a quick Red Oak bow, 60" long, small stiff handle (The entire handle is 6" long including the fades) and it draws just fine out to 27". I know if I perfected the tiller, I could get 28" safely. If you want to sinew back it, though, go right ahead.
      Sean

ricktrojanowski:
Here's the pics of the stave.  Hope this helps.  Any further advise would be appreciated. Thanks for all your help so far.

[attachment deleted by admin]

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page