Main Discussion Area > Bows

finishes

(1/4) > >>

billmac:
We've got a bunch of bows in the hot box and are ready to start cranking out some bows, after a summer of mostly cleaning and setting up the bow shop.  The bow shop itself is in a fairly shaded, humid area.  I'm going to clear the trees out around it (mostly black locust  ;D) but I'm worried about the bows regaining moisture.  Can the bows be, I don't know, semi-sealed, while they are being worked on?  A coating of something?  Any suggestions?

Also, we don't know anything about finishes.  I'm not real interested (yet) in collecting pine pitch or anything like that, but I'd like to start with a nice basic finish.  What do you suggest?

Also, what are the differences between tung oil and tru oil?  Which one is easier to obtain?    If you are going to stain, do it first, then the oil?  Any finishes over the oil?

If I use jute for the handle, how do I seal that?

Sorry for the machine gun barrage of questions.

Thanks

Pappy:
I just seal them with brush on Polythene till I start the bow.I use tru oil on the finished bow
and you would stain it first. :) I use the rub on tru oil but the spray will work also it just don't go as far and cost more. :)
   Pappy

DanaM:
I've used spar varnish for a finish but I like true oil better. In Marc's post "BB Santos Rosewood" he states that he uses shellac followed by tungoil, shellac, tung oil and finally paste wax. To seal jute handle wrap I've found that elmers white glue diluted with a little water works real good, I usually do two applications.

Pat B:
I use Tru-Oil on all my bows. Tung oil makes a good finish but you have to keep applying it to get a good coating.   For a temporary sealer, spray shellac works well. I use it to seal backs and ends of staves and sometime use it when heating wood to keep it from drying out too much. It is compatable with steam. Most any other finish will be compatable with shellac also. Even a well sealed bow will take on and give off moisture as the R/H changes. A good sealer will slow down this M/C rate.
   I have used TBII and TBIII to seal a twine handle wrap but found out that it becomes sticky in humid conditions or with hand sweat. I now use Massey finish(2ton epoxy thinned with acetone) Not primitive but will seal the handle very well and you still get the textured grip for a good hand purchase. 
   A good primitive finish for bows is hand rubbed bear fat(deer fat also). A friend was rendering bear fat when he nocked the container over on his deck. Water still only beads up on that section of his deck and that was 5 years ago.     Pat
 

Coo-wah-chobee:
                                  Ifn ya aint got bear fat rendered hawg fat does the same thing. ;)..........bob

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page