Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
Winter project - Yew Recurve bow
Gordon:
Scott, I'm sorry but I do not understand your question.
Bryce:
This might be a dumb question but. I was always taught that if your going to sinew back a yew bow to remove all the sapwood. And do 2-3 layers of sinew.... Why did you leave the sapwood on? So you didn't have to put more sinew?
mikekeswick:
--- Quote from: Bryce on March 12, 2012, 04:06:58 am ---This might be a dumb question but. I was always taught that if your going to sinew back a yew bow to remove all the sapwood. And do 2-3 layers of sinew.... Why did you leave the sapwood on? So you didn't have to put more sinew?
--- End quote ---
The sapwood is doing nothing other than acting as a spacer in this bow. Sapwood has a lower sg than heartwood so the limbs will work out a little lighter. It's a neat 'trick'.
Gordon - I'm sure this buildalong will help a lot of folks.
nativenoobowyer86:
There are no dumb questions Bryce, if i had asked the same question or if gordon would have posted a month earlier i wouldnt have removed the majority of the sapwood on my recurve......and whats worse, i decrowned the thing! When i started the project, it really made sense to me that i should decrown it. sapwood is strong in tension strength but i thought i had the sinew to do the tension work so the sapwood was not needed. That what i wanted was the compression strong heartwood. Buut now that i have worked the wood and recieved some helpful advice i see that the sapwood serves to push the sinew further from the neutral plane and the sapwood underneath the sinew is not doing much. A crowned back works the same way, making the sinew at the tip of the crown work extra. Yew is amazing and can handle nearly any and all compression tasks. also im used to workin marginal bow woods where caution is needed at evry turn to succeed, so i left flat spots for knots and imperfections. I noticed that gordon has a knot right on the belly edge of one of the limbs and pays little attention to it, i left a flat spot to reduce the local strain on the edge knot :S so the rest of the bending area is more strained than it should be, causing more set :S *sigh* read and learn i suppose :D
Gordon - thanks so much for this build-a-long! I am going to take what you have "taught" me and try a second attempt at one of these. My first worked out and shoots very well but my understanding has changed and i want to compare the old to the new :D also, if my understanding is still twisted please let me know :D haha
Bryce:
Iam no stranger to yew. But why not just add more sinew to raise the nuetral plane? To where the wood does the compressing and tue sinew works out the tension?
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