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Hackberry recurve build along, real time hopefully. ** DONE **
lesken2011:
I just can not wait to see this one finished! Looking real good Pearl.
blackhawk:
starting to look like a bow. are you going to trap the back?
PEARL DRUMS:
--- Quote from: blackhawk on March 24, 2012, 08:14:34 pm ---starting to look like a bow. are you going to trap the back?
--- End quote ---
Since I dont have enough sinew to really stack it up I dont think it will be any problem leaving the back as is.
PEARL DRUMS:
Day 5 - 90 minutes
Its not all that hard to get your hands a nice set of TIP'S........ ;) Patience and thoughtfullness work well here. They are more "drawn" out and symmetrical than most other parts of the bow build. The first thing I do is find my center and mark it. Then taper the width to my liking, there are no hard ands fast rules there. Keep in mind I'm only roughing them in for now. I then flip the bow over and drew a line that bisects my glue joint. The picture is miserable, but I think you can see the pencil line I'm talking about. That is my bottom angle. I use my Shinto for all my rough tip work. When I'm happy with the basic shape I use my good ol' sanding block and 50 grit to smooth out my tool marks and tune the shape up a little more. Ready for temporary string grooves.
PEARL DRUMS:
String grooves are a very important part of any bow you build. They must be in line with one another to prevent limb twisting, or even strings flying off if they are bad enough. Static recurves are especially sensitive to this. I don't use any hard and fast rules for finding my initial groove line. I just eyeball it and find a solid looking area for the string to ride and mark it on the appropriate angle. The harder the tips are flipped or recurved the more horizontal your grooves need to be. Once I get one side half cut in with my chainsaw file I flip the bow over and lay the file in that half round and use it to line up my other side. This helps keep them right on line. When I'm happy with my alignment and depth I will roll up some 50 grit and gently clean out the grooves and round off sharp edges. Again these tips are beefy and temporary, but they still need to be smooth as to not cut your tiller or build strings.
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