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Hickory Backed Massaranduba Build Along and help

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Will Carothers:
Decided to finally take the leap into warbow making. For my first, i chose to do a hickory backed massaranduba (forgive the spelling) for i hear that massa is very similar to ipe, and some say it is better. (i also could get it much cheaper, it also has a prettier color in my opinion) The "masa" i found is very straight grained, but is only 45 inches long, so i plan to do a splice, which is where i need help, ive seen z splices and such on lighter bows but for a heavy bow (~80#-90#) im not sure what to use.
I also want to do a center lam of walnut or cherry, that would actually be mopre like an extended powerlam as the only lams of these woods are 72" long, and the bow i hope to end up being about 75-76" ntn. so do you believe it is doable if the lam is tapered? im also thinking of a short (and thin) powerlam between the core lam and belly to add some contrast and help with tillering as i like a handle that is just a little bulkier, and that bends just a little bit.


Here is the wood im working with. Anybody have ideas on dimensions, for the weight, and/or tips on how to accomplish the tapering of lams?

Thanks, the help is greatly appreciated!

Ian.:
Well done Will you will learn a lot just getting stuck in.

For the splice although I have never done it, I have seen plenty of heavy bows with a z splice belly, it's all about getting well mated surfaces and using the correct glue. I would recommend if you can get it Resorcional which is good for oily woods like Massa and will hold the joint strong.

I don't bother with powerlams and for a first bow it will be more of a burden than its worth.

What sort of power tools do you have and how long is that Hickory board.

Badger:
  A w splice may be easier for you in this case and slightly stronger than a z spalice. Just draw out a "W" on a pice of paper, cut it oput with a razor blade and glue it to your wood, then cut it out right on the lines without damaging the paper and you will have a perfect joint. You will still need to squeeze it togetr wioth clamps.

Ian.:
In fact there is a video of the very thing, we can't post links so go on youtube and search for Bickerstaffe bows video 3 and it shows how he does joints.

Will Carothers:
Im sorry, what i meant to say was its my first really heavy bow, ive made bows for a few years now, my heaviest being a 65# osage flatbow i just finished. And ive sone power lams on a few bows and they look great.

For this build im using weldwood plastic resin glue which is technically a urea formaldehyde glue very similar to urac 185. but much cheaper.

I have referred to pip bickerstaffe's build along many times on previous bows, but those were only 50#, so i thought a different type of splice would be more suitable

Im only 15, so im hoping my muscles can adapt to higher and higher bow weights pretty fast, my goal is to shoot about 120-150# by new years

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