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need help from you pros

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iowabow:
Ty, I was just wonder if there was a something that was used in the past that indexed the draw. I have only been doing this 2 years and have not read all the books.

dbb:
I have had the same problem with right-left drift,but i agree with gstoneberg.You shouldnt see that result from change in drawlength if your arrows are correctly tuned .
In my case it was the shoulder of the bowarm.when i worked the backtension i sometimes lifted the shoulder and that makes the bowarm unstable.I relearned and now keep the shoulder low with bone to bone connection all the way from the handle to  the shoulder..i still have arrows miss right and left,but not too often and mostly due to crappy releases ::)
Hope it helps.

                          /Mikael

iowabow:
Thanks mikael looks like I have a lot to work on.

crooketarrow:
 I can tell you what I had did 4 times for people I've built bows for I filled in a second nock a shade deeper than the first but as close to the first as I could get. You when you got to full draw the string slids down into the second second nock when you get to full draw makeing it nosiable.
  To get the correct lenth you just remove the front of the of the first nock(higher one) The shorter the first nock the longer before it falls into place. BAM a built in clicker.
  I had a bow I'd built and finshed it and the guy had it for years. It had lost a couple pounds after 10 years or so. He liked the color of the old Osage and did'nt want me to shorten  the bow and refinish it. So I put anothe nock under the first to shorten the bow to pick up pounds. And found out about the built in clicker.
   But it's hard to do to get the right draw leanth but can be done. I have tryed it on 8 or 9 bows to get those 4.

dbb:
I guess that could work...But i would have to change underwear until i got used to it ::)
And i really think that a solid good technique is the best way to go.

/Mikael

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