Main Discussion Area > English Warbow

Core Lamination???

<< < (3/3)

Wooden Spring:
Thanks for everyone being so helpful. I'm taking everyone's advice, so hopefully something decent will arise from the pile of sawdust that is my shop... If nothing else, I'm REALLY gaining some experience using my cabinet makers rasps!

adb:

--- Quote from: fishfinder401 on September 27, 2012, 12:26:40 pm ---hlstanley i completely understand where you are coming from, i am similar in many ways to that, just had not gotten set in those ways before starting to make bows luckily, with bows you can have a general idea, but never exact, that takes some experimentation..... maybe that's not the best word for that, you need to get to know the wood and see how it reacts by working with bows and tillering them, eventually you will be one of tise people doing it by feel, it just takes time for most people.
-now a question for you abd, i keep hearing about the mass theory, what is that?i feel like its something i should know

--- End quote ---

The mass theory was developed by Steve Gardner (Badger) and Tim Baker. Do a search under archive library, using the title: 'little history behind the mass theory.' Badger's thesis explains it better than I can. He also covers the no set tillering method, which I also use. Yes, very valuable info.

fishfinder401:
ok, thanks, sounds like something i should learn ;)

adb:
I think basically what the mass theory says is:  for less dense woods, like perhaps maple, the limbs need to be wider and flatter. For more dense woods, like ipe or osage, the limbs need to be thinner and less 'massive.' So an ipe bow of the same draw weight will have thinner narrower limbs than a maple bow of the same draw weight, and they will have the same mass. I think it's a guideline to match bow design with the wood of choice, to achieve a good performing bow with minimal set.

Steve (Badger)... if I'm way out to lunch here, please correct me, but this is my understanding of the mass theory.

mikekeswick:
I hear what you are saying about printing/plywood etc...but trust me i've made over 100 elb's and have been right around thew houses with them! Althought your 1st bow is likely to be overbuilt (a good idea) and not therefore as(almost!) unstable as a high performance narrow elb. It is not a good idea to use more steps laying out the width profile when one will do the job. It's so important to get your layout totally straight with laminated elb's. I finally got a laser cutting company to make me up a stainless tremplate that is accurate to +/- 0.05mm. If you make a few of these bows and start using the mass principle to push the performance of them you will see what I mean ;)

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page