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Tillering on Warbows?

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adb:
Hi,
In my opinion, if you tiller the tips first, your bow ends up whip tillered, and your set will be exaggerated. Leave the last 8 or so inches alone until the end, if at all. Get it bending evenly in the middle first, full compass for a proper warbow.

D. Tiller:
Been working on it this evenning. Got it to brace height  and the bloody thing just about hinged on me in the lower limb.  Turns out there was a tiny pin knot just where it hinged. Got it evened out and think I may still reach my #45 draw weight at arround 27". It's a lighter bow in the Warbow design since it is for my mother who showed and interrest in the bows I  was building. May have to lighten it up a bit more for her though.

David T

sagitarius boemoru:
I have only made couple of hundreds and not that much warbows. Though - with any bow it is beneficial to tiler tips in the end. Its the area where smallest loss of material does greatest difference. Also with warbow it is beneficial to keep the middle tad stiff for what it takes and scrap it also in the end since this is easy to overdo and end up with a bow which just bends too much through handle.

What I find nice about MR pattern is that it gives you good idea how the bow was layd out initially and what sucession of steps it took to make it.
For example - the tips were initially layd out wide  to get enough wood in midlimb to achieve heavy weight. That is also benefitial for you have enough tip thickness for cutting tilering nocks in.
Then once you approach the moment you need to put the nocks on, you narrow the last portion of the limb (say the tip), which can be done without loss of stifness.
They can be tilered all the way down and the nocks put on in the end, but I find beneficial to have the nock on the moment I want to string it, since there is still enough time and material for correction of any mischief.

Its not that difficult to make big honking bow, but to make one which will perform well for its parameters and also looks well in the terms of proportions is much more difficult.
And to do it with any other material than high quality yew for this particular pattern is entirelly different story. (No wonder when the pattern is intended for yew)

Jaro

markinengland:
Jaro,
I think that many people have different methods to make bows and what works for one person may not work for another.
I think whether you use a long string or even an initla low brace height for initial tillering makes a big difference in this as it really does influence the tips.
Mark.

D. Tiller:
Got the hing out guys and finnished tillering the bow in. Unfortunatly it took a bit of set in the lower limb and just a tad in the upper. Think the hing overstressed the wood a bit. But, it does shoot well for its draw weight so I'm prety happy with it.

Unfotunatly, my mother will not shoot it until I put and arrow shelf on the bow and a leather wrapped handle. Real bummer since I dont often like putting anything on a bow of this design. Just cant seem to get her to shoot off her index finger for some reason.

Now I will be starting on the heavybow in the 80-90# range. Just need to glue up the stave and start carving away at it. I think one of the problems with set is that I have been using yellowheart as a center lamb. Pretty weak wood if you ask me, I think I will stay away from it on the next bows I build.

David T

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