Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
Character Osage Bow Buildalong.
blackhawk:
If you have a nice even floor tiller that's not too crazy stiff you can use a flat workbench,or two by four as long as its close to being flat and true,and put the back of the handle down onto a 2-3" block(however much reflex you want) ,then clamp it down at each tip. If its tillered even it'll flex even when clamped down and will induce an even reflex. That's what I do with staves like that that won't fit well over a form. Sometimes you might have to put a shim in a deflexed area that needs a lil push in the right direction. I've also done this to just correct one limb so it'll match the other. Just get it looking good before you set the heat to her. Understand? I can take a pic and post it of what I mean if need be.
I think removing that crack was a good idea....this is one of those staves its hard to give advice to..you can take as many pics as you want,but id really need to see it and "feel" it in person to really give any advice that has any worth to it.
Dean Marlow:
blackhawk
Posting your picture would be great. Like I said before I would like every ones ideas on how to get this to a finished bow. Dean
blackhawk:
Ill out one up with some more explanation after work today dean.
Dean Marlow:
Today I removed the wood from the belly of both limbs to get them to start bending. The one limb has several dips in it which made it slow going as far as removing the wood. I put marks on top of and the sides of the limb where it would ridge up to make sure that I didn't remove to much compared to the valleys. Also I used my caliper's up and down the limb to try to get as even wood removal that I could. I would give the limb three or four passes with the big rasp then clean it up with the scraper and run the caliper down the limb to see if I was removing to much or not enough of the belly wood. I would then take the bow and push down on the limb "Floor Tiller" and repeat the process until I got it to bending Like I wanted. Tomorrow will will try and get the limbs straightened and work on the handle
blackhawk:
heres what I was mentioning dean on how to match the one limb a lil better and closer to the other one....I would just try to get the tip close to the same where the other tip is in the limb and leave most of the dips...I wouldn't try to correct those dips or even put too much heat to em cus they have a tendency to wanna check or crack there if you try and put to much heat to em or try to force them to move and straightening them out.
if I cant use a form this is what ill do...just a 2x4 with a chalk line snapped down it. you can even move string tracking some if its only a little ways off by using your chalk line as a guide. heres a mock setup with a stave from the side on two 2x4's to give it 3" reflex and leather placed under so as not to ding the back. you can see the left limb needs a lil "push" to match the right. this is a floor tillered blank on it.
and heres where I put a shim in it to get the left limb matched up to the right
heres a closer view of the shimed area and that limb,and notice the chalkline
and heres a view from the long ways,and you can see that the handle and both tips are aligned on center
if this doesn't help you maybe itll help someone else who sees this
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version