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Handle wrap W/arrow pass and rest

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Keenan:
I have had several people ask about how to do the wrap with the arrow pass and shelf built in. Here is a quick buildalong of how to do it. I think most know how to do basic wraps so I won't go into stitching styles and will just cover the cut in and rest buildup.

For working any leather a good cutter is essential. I like a rotary cut that they sell in fabric stores. Also a good cutting board and straight edge are great tools to help as well. Here is the basic set up

 I like to use fine grained and supple leather that is not to stiff. This will help when inserting the rest later on. 

Start out by cutting your leather in a typical square piece to fit the handle.Except make it longer then normal to cut in the top arrow pass later. I will often cut about 3/16" to 1/4" shy of metting together when wrapped around. Always do a test to make sure you can stretch the leather enough to meet up at the splice.

 When you feel you have it the right size for the wrap, you are ready to mark for the top cut.  You will start by placing the edge of the leather on the center of the bow and  stretching tight towards the side of the arrow pass. The mark where the point of the strike plate should be, See below


 Next cut in your peak as desired. You can use a short narrow point or longer slender point depending on style and taste. I suggest practice with a scrap piec of leather before your real first cut.  The important part is to have the depth of the cut equal. Notice the grid on the board this will help.

Keenan:
Next you will need to fold the bottom edge if you want that style by folding about 1/2" and hammer a crease on the fold. this will help it stay. Be sure to use a light smooth faced hammer. When that is done you will need to check to make sure the edges of your wrap are the same length. When this is right everything will match for the lacing.  I always fold and punch both sides together this helps with spacing and line up.

Keenan:
 I like the multi spade leather punch as it does not show the wood as much on the splice and I like to cut my own lacing so they match. When you punch one section, hold a finger down on the leather when pulling out the punch so as not to move the line up. Then place the first prong in the last hole for the next section of punches.


 I have found most commercial leather strips to be to thick for lacing. I found cutting my own to be much better material match as well as cheaper to make. Just use the straight edge and rotary cutter to cut your desired width. I often use about 3/16". If it is real supple leather and stretches more then slightly wider as in will get narrower when stretched.

Keenan:
After your handle wrap is stitched on your bow you can add an arrow shelf very easy. Here is how I do it
 Start by marking were you want your arrow shelf to be.  Then use a razor to make a horizontal cut in the leather about 3/8"to 1/2" depending on how wide your shelf wedge is.



 After cutting your slott I use a rounded off tool to insert and stretch the leather to recieve  to leather wedge.

There are many types of shelf wedges. Although some like to use golf tees split in half I prefer leather wedge buildups for several reasons. Wood scraping on wood makes noise and also causes ware. A leather wedge is easy to make and will last forever without causing any ware on arrows and is extremely silent.
 You can do this by just cutting up leather scraps to for a small triangular pyramid. saterate each piece with super glue as you build it up then just sand down on a belt sander to the size you want.

 Pull the tool and check for fit. When happy with fit, add a couple drops of super glue and insert wedge.

 This will also help tighten your wrap and blends in cleanly with no apparent seams.

uncleduck:
Thanks for the post Keenan, looks good. I will have to try this on the next bow.

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