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Trilam Warbow Hickory/Greenheart/Hickory 125-130lbs@32"
Prarie Bowyer:
Oh, BTW there is connection between Faire Bow and Rudder Bows.
Commercialization is not a bad thing . . . exactly. I have no problem with a guy making a standard range of products to serve a market demand. The standardizing helps with throughput, efficient use of materials and keeping price down which increases sales. Any market will have products of all different price ranges and qualities. Not every boater can afford or wants a Chriss Craft.
Others are Richard Head and Bickerstaff.
Just what is wrong with a guy, especially in the Netherlands with their taxes, making a living at his craft however he needs to? Isn't that what free markets and innovation are all about? Sure we wouldn't be against that (Cough~ socialist liberal) >:D
Look at Konrad Voegelle. This guy only makes two kinds of bows though they come in bamboo backed or self bows. That is it. That is what he knows works and he can confidantly make with some modicome of efficiency.
Del the cat:
--- Quote from: Prarie Bowyer on March 15, 2013, 02:24:35 pm ---
But don't take my word for it. Take three pieces of wood 1/8" thick by some length and bend them as a bundle then glue them togeather and bend them again.
Debate solved. >:D
--- End quote ---
WALOOB!
Clamp 'em together by any method, nails, bolts, rivets. even string if the surfaces are prepared correctly. And they will be stiffer.
It's the change in dimension that makes it stiffer. Not the glue.
The fair comparison is glue 3 strips of 1/8" together and compare it with a piece of 3/8" solid timber unglued.
I sincerely hope you were joking (presumably the " >:D" means you were).
Sorry if this post was unecessary, but there I wouldn't want some innocent newbie taking you seriously.
Del
Ian.:
I was very tempted to get some doubled sided tape and see if it holds a lam together, not for any bending test just to see what happens.
nineworlds9:
No one got my Dutch rudder joke. Or they stayed silent. No worries, ill keep it clean from henceforth. Pleased to report again today my rudder warbow still hasn't broken after all I've done to it. We shall see....
toomanyknots:
--- Quote from: toomanyknots on March 11, 2013, 04:30:08 pm ---
--- Quote from: mikekeswick on March 11, 2013, 03:33:56 pm ---
--- Quote from: Prarie Bowyer on March 09, 2013, 09:52:26 am ---I haven't read everything above.
My thoughts is that Hickory is an excelent wood.
I like the tri lam design for a few reasons. A major one is that it is efficient use of wood. Also it can be pretty. It takes more technical plannig in the early design and layout stages.
The concept is great because you gain alot of strength from the gluelines which helps reduce limb weight.
I find trilam ELB's difficult to make and still get the right look because of the above.
--- End quote ---
Gluelines do not affect stiffness. The concept is really nothing more than adding a pretty colour!.....at least the way most folks do things.
For a tri-lam elb then go for a 1/4 thick hickory backing a core of 1/16th to 1/8th then adda belly. 7/8ths thick at the handle with any dense wood for upto 60 lbs.
--- End quote ---
I have also heard from other bowyers that the glue lines/laminates add stiffness, which can reduce limb mass in bows. Mike, can you explain why it is that this is said to be, and why it is not true? I honestly would like to know, and honestly haven't wrapped my head around that yet. If it is not true, than I cannot see any other benefit from adding a strip of ipe between hickory and osage. Osage and ipe are both dense woods that are great in compression. You often see them being used as cores, as well as bellys. I think this is funny, as you could easily switch them around, for what I would think would have to be the same effect? Logically, I would think the best use of a core would be a light but dependable and strong wood, that would reduce the weight of the limbs, but provide a good space between the outer back and belly, which are under the most stresses. I have always thought that this was the main concept in hornbow construction, seeing as lighter woods like mulberry were favored alot of the time, as well as maple. I have also heard that there is little reason to go over an eighth of an inch thick with a hickory backing? It seems to me, when researching laminate elb construction, there can be alot of conflicting information out there, and not a ton of thorough explanation. My favorite sources of info so far have been old out of print books found online.
--- End quote ---
Just thought I would resurrect this thread, as I never got a answer regarding glue lines adding stiffness? (unless it was a pm that I forgot about, :o lol )
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