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Warbow of white wood?

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ionicmuffin:
heat treating the black locust would probably help, then you could back that piece with ash. width i have no idea because ive never done a war bow, but ive seen many ash warbows so it probably works pretty well. black locust is a nice wood, but if the tiller isnt perfect it will crystal. i have no idea if heat treating would stop that, but in most cases heat treating will increase the strength of the wood in compression.

AH:
Ash can make fine war bows, especially if heat treated. My first war bow was an ash bow.

Thesquirrelslinger:

--- Quote from: Livefortheoutdoors on March 24, 2013, 03:42:35 pm ---Ash can make fine war bows, especially if heat treated. My first war bow was an ash bow.

--- End quote ---
Thanks for advice. Dimensions? I want to try it soon.

AH:
You should read this:
http://www.alanesq.com/longbow/bsb/The-Back-Street-Bowyer-264a.pdf
This is what I relied on to make my ash bow. I think it's got dimensions of his bows in the pdf.
I went for a smudge under 1 1/2 inches wide and around 1 1/6 deep in the handle in mine and got around 80 pounds hot off the tiller, then I took it down to 70 because I was having a hard time pulling that  :(

DarkSoul:
What draw length are you looking for? That will determine the overall bow length.
That drawweight is not really considered 'warbow' weight. Regardless, many whitewoods will make a longbow of that weight. Black locust and also ash will easily make a fine 100# warbow. Both woods will then benefit from a crowned back and a flat belly, made from a stave (not board). So pick the wood you want :)
If you want to make a true ELB that meets the 5/8 rule, you'll need to make it narrower. I'm thinking 1 ¼" wide at the handle should do it. Nothing wrong with 1½" wide, but that will probably result in a bow thinner than 5/8 of the width.

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