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Yew Warbows

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AH:

--- Quote from: ionicmuffin on March 26, 2013, 11:57:11 pm ---i believe that because those inner limbs arnt bending very much that your weight is effected by this, if you get the limb with the knots bending close to the other one then you should be in good shape, i think maybe your finding that the weight is low because the tips are doing more bending.

--- End quote ---
So remove from the inner limbs, yeah? It makes sense, just seems ironic to me that removing wood could bring up the weight... ;)

ionicmuffin:
if the wood is too stiff its not stressed like it could be.

Josh B:
That's not exactly how it works.  If it's hinging close to the handle, it can make the limb seem weaker than it really is because a little excess bend at the handle causes the tip to travel a lot further.  In that case, if you get the rest of the limb working and eliminate the hinge, the limb will be stiffer than when it was hinged.  In your case, where its the outer limbs bending too much, the only way to fix that is to get the inner limbs working more, causing more tip deflection as you get it working closer to center.  In short, you're gonna lose draw weight when you correct a whip tiller.  If it were me, I would pike it now if your sure its gonna be under your desired weight and then retiller.  Josh

AH:
I couldn't resist messing around with photo editing programs.
I really just stretched the picture down to get an idea what the tiller will look like in the end if I leave it like this, which I won't...that whip tiller becomes a pretty bad hinge.
Since this is my first real heavy war bow attempt (all my others were 80 or lower) what do you guys think I'll land around? I'm at about 50 pounds at 22".
I'm not really going to rely on this stretched picture, I have serious doubts about the accuracy of this method anyway. I just think it lets me see potential weak spots easier.

Del the cat:
If you continue in the same way, you'll obviously end up with 50# at 32"
As an example I'm making one now, the guy wants 70# at 28", but capable of drawing out to 32"
Now I've got it to 70# at 28", but as I come back further, two factors come into play.
1. It will take a little set.
2. The tiller may need slight adjustment.
This means that once it's back to 32" it will probably no longer be 70# at 28", prob more like 65#
IMO I've screwed up and I should have insisted on specifying the required full draw weight at 32" so I could have been tillering to this from day one. (OK maybe a bit uder in the early stages).
The basic principle remains tiller to full weight else you'll come in under weight.
Del

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