Author Topic: Golden Rod arrows  (Read 6933 times)

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lee5868

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Golden Rod arrows
« on: October 30, 2007, 12:42:24 am »
Hey guys and gals.....There are fields full of golden rod out here in western PA... Can you guys show me arrows you have made from it and give details.. and also rose shoots do you cut them when they are green and then let them dry? and if so how long do you let them dry for... pictures and details are appreciated...... Thanks

Charlie

Minuteman

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Re: Golden Rod arrows
« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2007, 08:36:56 am »
 Don't have any pics for you. I did stick a golden rod shaft arrow with a trade point tied on front through a doe a few years ago though!
  If the goldenrod stalks have already started to turn brown with dark splotches on 'em you're probably too late. You have to pick 'em when they still have the golden colored tops. After the stalks die they lose structural integrity really fast.They are already no good here probably the same or farther along depending on where you are located.
As far as the multi-flora rose , cut it whenever ,let it dry for a month or so then scrape and work it. It helps if you straighten it out as it dries, I keep some in the truck and fiddle with 'em for a few minutes before work everyday. They dry straighter that way.
 Oh yeah, make the bottom (big end)the business end. Gives you a pre-tapered shaft. Keep 'em sealed with wax or fat or they will dry out and get too brittle over time.
 Chris

Offline Pat B

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Re: Golden Rod arrows
« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2007, 02:26:46 pm »
I have made a few arrows with goldenrod, horse weed and dog finnel; all perennial weeds. Chris' advice about collecting at the appropriate time is good. It doesn't take these weeds long to start deterriorating.  I have a horse weed arrow that was sent to me from Jamie after killing a doe with it out of my Medicine Bow. The point was gone but the shaft is still sound.
   For shoot arrows; rose, sourwood, viburnum, etc, you want to collect at least 2 year old shoots. The easiest way to determine if they are at least 2 is there will be small branches where last years leaves were. When the leaf falls off it leaves a leaf scar. Usually, at the top of this scar will be a bud that will make the small branch next year. First year growth is usually pretty flimsy and not good for arrows. By the second year, you have 2 growth rings that will work against each other to give you a stiffer shaft. You can adjust this stiffness, if it is too much, by sanding or using a thunb plane to remove some wood from the center of the shoot to reduce the spine.  Pat
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline mullet

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Re: Golden Rod arrows
« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2007, 10:09:33 pm »
 Can one of you guy's post a picture of what you are calling Golden Rods?I think what we have is different.It is like dog fennal and not worth a crap.We have Dog Fennal over 10 feet high in some places.But to make a good splined arrow it would be thick.I'd rather use it for Atlatl shafts.
Lakeland, Florida
 If you have to pull the trigger, is it really archery?

Offline Hillbilly

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Re: Golden Rod arrows
« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2007, 08:43:26 am »
Eddie, here it is:



I would rather use something a bit more substantial and woody for shafts myself. The multiflora rose makes pretty good shafts, quite a bit tougher than goldenrod.
Smoky Mountains, NC

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Offline mullet

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Re: Golden Rod arrows
« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2007, 12:24:06 pm »
  Hmmm,That's the same thing here.What i've found seems too flimsy to shoot out of 60,65# bows.
Lakeland, Florida
 If you have to pull the trigger, is it really archery?

Minuteman

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Re: Golden Rod arrows
« Reply #6 on: November 04, 2007, 12:46:15 pm »
Ya gotta find the ones growing over septic fields.

Offline richpierce

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Re: Golden Rod arrows
« Reply #7 on: November 09, 2007, 12:30:35 pm »
I harvested a dozen nice thick strong goldenrod shoots yesterday.  They are over 3/8" at the base.  I found the thick straight ones in a low spot where the soil is rich and damp.  I was surprised how strong they feel.  Still green in the stalk even though the heads are white and leaves are dropping off.

I took half of them and skinned them right away- the outer "bark" peels off and the leaf scars rub right off with a piece of flint.

Do you guys fit foreshafts and nocks or just use the goldenrod shaft like it was wood?

Offline Pat B

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Re: Golden Rod arrows
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2007, 01:35:17 am »
The horseweed arrow Jamie sent me has self nock and the head was hafted without a foreshaft.  Pat
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

rocker

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Re: Golden Rod arrows
« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2007, 07:55:57 pm »
wow this is neat stuff,im new at this so i had no clue you could use such things for arrows,i have golden rod all over my property!!i got ammo for life!!!!!

Offline richpierce

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Re: Golden Rod arrows
« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2007, 08:56:12 pm »
I am working on some.  Inspect carefully for galls and splits and make sure the shafts are bigger than needed because they shrink a lot.  Because they are hollow (pithy) and not that strong I am finding it is important to go easily when straightening.  I'm pretty sure they will end up being workable but not durable when compared to dogwood shoots etc.