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Tiller tips...

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Del the cat:

--- Quote from: WillS on November 05, 2013, 01:38:58 pm ---Thanks Del! I'll get it braced up and work on it properly tomorrow.  It's eating my Fastflight string like crazy at the moment which I've not come across before.  I'm using the string I've got on it for long string tillering, twisting it up to get it the right length to brace and it's just stretching out like mad, so the brace height drops right down to nothing instantly.  Really odd!  You'd have thought a string that's been taken up to 120lbs during tillering would be fully stretched?!

--- End quote ---
Yeah it's that string angle thing again... even my Angel Majest stretches out a bit. Gotta remember the difference in string length between say a 4" brace and no brace is prob' 1/4" and 1/4" on a string that's 76" long is ... hang on let's get the clculator up... yes... it's b*gger all percent  ;)
Del

toomanyknots:
My personal opinion is that you could reduce it in weight a bit if 130 is your goal, especially at 83" as if you need to up the weight in the end you could pike up to 5 inches off the bow and still be roughly good on length. I know only full brace is gonna tell the truth regarding draw weight, but I still think it would help in keeping stress low on the bow, over stressing it and then reducing weight will always cause more set of course, but at the same time I know some amount of this is unavoidable. I also think, at the same time you do that, you could pull it a bit farther, the bend is looking pretty good to me. But I think you could tiller a bit more before brace. I think, using the shortest string possible of course, pulling and perfecting the tiller early on before brace can help reduce set and minimize the stress the belly is gonna take at brace. Just my own thoughts,  :).

WillS:
Cheers fellas!  I'll tidy up the bend on the right a bit and get it to a 2" brace or thereabouts then see where I am!

1442:
here's a little trick I use on flat bows to get smooth matching bends in limbs of different side profiles.  Just take a straight edge and draw a perfectly straight line on the side of the limbs. The line may not be able to go the length of the limb because it will run off somewhere due to the limb not straight enough but position the line so that it will span the reflexed area well and then another line can be drawn perfectly straight on the rest of the limb.  When the bow is drawn on the tiller tree or whatever you can look at the lines to match the bend of the lines on each end which is easier to see exactly how even the bend is than trying to match two limbs that are differant.
This should work really good on warbows due to the thickness of the limbs having much more area to get a straight line on. Flat bow limbs are so thin that the straight lines run off the bow in a short section if the side profile wiggles much, but even a short line through a wiggle will show exactly how much the wiggle area is bending.
This also works great through the handle area and will really help identify how much bend is happening through or right out of the handle area through the fades.
This may help you see how even the actual bend in the outer limbs are. I have a pic i can post this evening of the process on a flat bow if my description here is not clear.
Goodluck with the bow !       Terry

WillS:
Thanks Terry! Appreciate the help! I'd heard of the technique but never tried it.  Might give it a go if the reflex limb keeps tricking my eyes!

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